In 2020, historic watchmaker Breguet adorns the dial of its Extra-Thin Self-Winding Tourbillon with a touch of deep blue, by using the traditional grand feu enamel technique in its new Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367
There are a limited number of artisans still capable of mastering this age-old process, which was dear to Abraham-Louis Breguet, as he appreciated the spotless aspect it conferred on watches. Not surprising, given that he had revolutionised watchmaking aesthetics by ridding watches of heavy and superfluous decoration. Today, Breguet keeps this art alive with a workshop entirely dedicated to enamelling.
Beyond providing decoration to the dial, enamel work is a particularly specialised craft, one requiring rigour, patience, and technical mastery. After going through stages of grinding and cleaning, the enamel is applied with a brush to the gold dial while still wet, in a thin and consistent layer. It is then heated in a furnace at a temperature higher than 800°C. The final result is obtained by adding several layers of enamel until the desired colour is reached.
For the new timepiece, the hue is a blend of a number of blue nuances. The final step consists of gentle polishing before the dial is placed in the furnace one last time and this step provides it with its natural sheen. The dial’s gold elements are then bevelled in a workshop dedicated to this revered craft. Then the different indicators are applied on the dial. In keeping with the very distinctive method, artisans provide a striking depth effect within the dial itself to the Breguet numerals, the hours chapter and seconds chapter, and the logo.
The range of blues also emphasises the powdered silver indicators. Another subtle detail can be found above the tourbillon carriage: the famous secret signature. Introduced in 1795 by Abraham-Louis Breguet, it is a guarantee of authenticity that helped in the fight against counterfeits, which were already a problem at the time. Breguet places the signature on the majority of its models these days for decorative purposes, as homage to its founder.
Under the dial, lies the beating heart of the watch, with its minimalist design – the 581 caliber, which distinguishes itself through its finesse and technical performance. Breguet’s thinnest tourbillon movement showcased within this timepiece is no thicker than 3 millimetres, with the total case thickness measuring 7.45 millimetres.
Placed between 4 and 6 o’clock, the tourbillon is housed in a titanium carriage that features a made-to-measure escapement and a silicon Breguet balance spring that oscillates at a frequency of four hertz, which is particularly high for a tourbillon balance spring. The Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367 boasts an 80-hour power reserve thanks to its high-energy barrel, a concept patented by Breguet.
Available exclusively at Breguet boutiques, this new release in platinum features a blue alligator leather strap.
