For the eighth year in a row, Bvlgari has achieved another record with its latest Octo Finissimo Ultra as the world’s thinnest mechanical watch at 1.80 mm. It also marks Bvlgari’s entry into the virtual world through the QR code on its dial. “Day & Night” speaks to Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Product Creation Executive Director at Bvlgari
Can you first tell us about the Octo Finissimo Ultra?
This maybe our most important record as it is surely the end of a journey, but for me, it is the beginning of a new one. We have a QR code on the Octo, and when you scan it, you open your own internet website that has all the information about your watch plus more content dedicated to the owners. This is very interesting because we are talking about the thinnest mechanical watch on the market, and we use this watch to engage – to go into a world that doesn’t exist. We are talking about NFT; we have video art; we have a very immersive experience with the Oculus – so it is just the beginning of a new journey. We are very happy that we were able to do it with the Finissimo because we talk about something that doesn’t exist through the thinnest and one of the lightest watches we have on the market. From the technical point of view, this is unbelievable even for us.
What is the thickness of the watch?
The movement is 1.5mm thick, but the movement is made on the mainplate, so the whole case is 1.8mm, which means it is thinner than a coin. The bracelet was another challenge as was the buckle; we decided to have a bracelet on this watch as the bracelet is part of the Octo signature. The titanium bracelet is absolutely unbelievable. Usually, the bracelet hides part of the buckle. It was not possible to do so due to the thinness this time. So, we completely opened the bracelet and you can see the buckle through the bracelet. It was a very seamless project; every time we get an idea, we go ahead and implement it.
In the beginning, the watch was a bit different because it had a round-shaped design for the movement with the components in the centre. I wanted the movement to be spread out so that there is a very unique blend of the movement and the case. We decided it was going to be an Octo, and have the biggest bevel as possible. We made sure there are four corners because the Octo is almost a square case. In the end, we have this watch with all these different layers, all the wheels, small dials, and it is absolutely amazing.
Did you place the movement directly on the backcase of the watch?
Yes, it is made on the tungsten carbide directly. All the elements just turn in one direction, that is why we don’t have the crown. We needed to change the axis, and that is why we have the wheels because all the elements are made on the same base, like layers. We have numerous patents for this timepiece; a total of eight patents. It was not easy because each time they had to find a solution, and my obsession was that I want to wear the watch. For me, it was not a watch made to be sold, but to wear on my wrist. So, every solution had to make it easy to wear otherwise we discarded that idea.
Did the thinness of the metal in the cogs create a problem?
No, it is true that the metal in the cogs is thin but it is super-hard. That is why we decided to use tungsten – a material used in making our tools in the watchmaking industry; it is super, super hard. The case is made of titanium as is the bracelet; the mainplate is made of tungsten.
It is a limited edition of how many pieces?
It is a limited edition of 10 pieces, and the movement is made up of more than 170 components.
Bvlgari has been concentrating on the Octo for a few years now, but what about the Daniel Roth line; will there be any resurgence in that line?
Definitely yes, as it is part of the brand, part of our legacy as is the Gerald Genta. Right now, Daniel Roth is a hot topic on social media and in the auctions. Our idea is to play with Bvlgari, Gerald Genta, and Daniel Roth in a very consistent manner; not just another watch on the market with a different logo. That is why we decided to manage Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta directly from Bvlgari.
