Watches

Officine Panerai traces its roots with the 2015 collection

Officine Panerai watches are a subtle blend of Italian design, Swiss technology and deep rooted passion for the sea. The brand’s roots can be traced back to 1860, where in the Italian city of Florence, Giovanni Panerai and his grandson, Guido Panerai, strived for precision in the making of the perfect timepiece for the exploits of the Royal Italian Navy

The rising popularity of Officine Panerai caught the attention of the Richemont group, the parent company of other luxury brands such as Van Cleef & Arpels and Montblanc, which acquired the brand in 1997 and rebranded Panerai as a luxury watch Maison. Currently, the brand has four major lines of watches; Historic, Contemporary, Manifattura and Special Editions. The latest 2015 Officine Panerai collection has a sporting character with unique features attributed to the sea.

Luminor Submersible

This collection consists of three models; the Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech™ 3 Days Automatic 47mm and the Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Titanio 47mm with a silver or black bezel. The carbotech model is unique in comparison to the other two models, because it is made from a new composite material based on carbon fibre.  Carbotech has a matt black finish that is used to make the case, the rotating bezel and the lever bridge which protects the winding crown. The material is lighter than ceramic and titanium and it is also much more resistant to external pressures.

The Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Titanio 47mm models have an automatic chronograph calibre with flyback function, which enables the chronograph hand that is already moving to be zeroed and instantly restarted by a single pressure, without it being necessary to stop the hand first and then to return it to zero. The large 47mm case supports a push button at 10 o’clock that controls the stopping and starting of the chronograph, while the push button at 8 o’clock operates the flyback function.

Mare Nostrum

The Mare Nostrum Titanio 52mm features a chronograph function that was originally made for the deck officers of the Royal Italian Navy in 1943. Revived for the 2015 collection, the timepiece takes its name from the ancient Romans who controlled the majority of Egypt and Spain’s coastline. The Romans referred to the Mediterranean Sea as “Mare Nostrum” which interpreted means “Our Sea”.  Much later, the Italians gained control of the sea, and it was with this in mind that the Panerai family named the chronograph timepiece.

There are a couple of fundamental differences between the 1943 vintage watch and the 2015 version; the first being the material in which the tonneau-shaped case is constructed from. Steel was previously used which has now been replaced with a much lighter brushed titanium, a material which combines non-allergenic properties with the structural toughness needed to resist high pressure, external stress and corrosion. The second main difference is the new tobacco brown colour that replaces the vintage dark green shade of the earlier model.

Equation of Time

The Equation of Time collection features two models; the Radiomir 1940 8 Days Acciaio 48mm and the Luminor 1950 8 Days Acciaio 47mm. These astronomical complications feature a P.2002/E hand-wound movement with a power reserve of eight days. As well as the linear “equation of time” indicator that is located in the lower part of the dial, the rest of the black dial boasts a classic sandwich structure that was originally invented by Panerai in the late 1930s; where two superimposed discs “sandwich” a luminous substance, forcing it to shine through the holes in corresponding markers on the upper disc. A glow-in-the-dark counter illustrates the seconds function at the nine o’clock position and on the opposite side is a date window and another circular counter on which the month can be read. On the back of the case is a sapphire crystal transparent window which showcases the complex movement.

Radiomir Firenze

The hand-engraved designs on the Radiomir Firenze 3 Days Acciaio 47mm is what makes this model exceptional. Using the same dimensions as its first ever timepiece manufactured in 1936, Officine Panerai has created the 2015 version, with its 47mm brushed steel case and winding crown which are adorned with intricate engravings inspired by the motifs which recur in Florentine iconography.

The subtle black dial is enhanced by a satiné soleil finish which catches the light and scatters it, creating stunning, surprising effects. Hidden behind the dial, is the hand-wound P.3000 calibre, that is only visible once the watch is turned over, exposing the sapphire crystal porthole positioned in the centre of the case back. The two spring barrels connected in series provide a power reserve of three days and the balance, which is extraordinarily large at 13.2mm in diameter, oscillates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour.

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