An infinite source of inspiration for Christian Dior, gardens have featured in numerous collections since the New Look show of 1947, with its entrancing femmes-fleurs. Dior’s latest high jewellery collection is a celebration of spring and evokes the colourful ambience of a garden
Corolla skirts, embroidered or brocaded roses, floral trims, pastoral prints; a couture nature that Victoire de Castellane – Creative Director of Dior Joaillerie – has also celebrated with her marvellous pieces since 1999.
Another vastly imaginative realm she loves to work with is couture itself: its motifs, its techniques, the textures and effects of its fabrics, its ultimate excellence. A tribute to the supreme savoir-faire of jewellery making and exceptional stones, this new line is composed of 170 pieces, including three secret watches – veritable watchmaking gems – adorned with splendours of the plant world.
Lush foliage, flowers assembled stone by stone as delicately as if petals, bouquets of country blooms, or shimmering flowerbeds conjure up the sweet delight of spring. A subtle shading of nuances echoes the iridescence of opals arranged as if skilfully planted. Gems set at different levels add volume to the jewels, transcribing the naturalness of a garden. Contrasting colours blossom in a bold interplay of reliefs.
Motifs appear architectural, almost abstract. Naive also, sometimes. Floral, yes; but the floral inspiration is never literal. It is as if Victoire de Castellane sought to represent a childhood memory – perhaps Granville, Milly-la-Forêt, or La Colle noire in Montauroux – the three gardens so close to the heart of Christian Dior.
Some of the pieces reveal little imaginary decors, the poetic scenery of a miniature theatre where flowers, butterflies and rainbows are intertwined. On these mother-of-pearl tableaus, perspective is diminished, the scale ratio subverted. A precious, dreamlike colouring expresses all the designer’s love of nature and gardens.
Elsewhere, on gold plaques, a glittery lacquer reiterates the sparkles of diamonds in a game of hide-and-seek around exceptional stones shining in the centre. Couture tassels embellish the neckline, embrace the ears, and delicately wrap around the waist.
In this haute joaillerie collection, ways of wearing are multiplied for optimal flexibility. Gold-beaded threads add finishing touches with a couture spirit. The jewellery is transformable, some stones with an impressive number of carats can be detached, rings run on several fingers and brooches remind us that men are also free to love flowers.
