Watches

Stunning Excalibur tourbillons from Roger Dubuis

This year, Roger Dubuis’ iconic journey continues at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024 – where the Maison unveils a place like no other to share its tourbillon artistry with the true believers in high horology. To see exactly what sets Roger Dubuis apart, visitors were able to immerse themselves in exciting new releases, each distinguished by complex tourbillon mechanics as well as breath-taking aesthetics. These included the Excalibur Sunrise Double Tourbillon, the Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon, and the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon

Excalibur Sunrise Double Tourbillon
The first Double Tourbillon from the Geneva watchmaker was released in 2005. Since that moment, the Maison has continued along its path of Double Tourbillon design. It’s a rare artistry that comes with its own particular set of challenges. In the new Excalibur Sunrise Double Tourbillon, we see how Roger Dubuis has perfected the technique of this complex watchmaking challenge. Delivering 72 hours of power reserve, the RD108SQ is built from 319 components and features two flying tourbillons, once again linked by a differential.

By placing these Double Tourbillons within a skeletonised framework, the Maison reveals a moving world of finely decorated surfaces and pure aesthetics – all endorsed by Poinçon de Genève certification. A total of 17 different types of finishing were executed on the movement. The burst of colour surrounding the body is formed from 108 gems – ranging from vivid red shades of garnet to orange spessartite and yellow sapphire. Each high-quality stone is baguette-cut with sublime precision and arranged in a sunrise gradient around the timepiece, with 72 on the bezel, 27 on the astral signature, and 9 on the flange. Even more warmth is achieved through the glow of 18K pink gold, which Roger Dubuis has used for the 45 mm case of this masterpiece, which is a limited edition of 8 pieces.

Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon
Limited to just 28 pieces, the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon is Roger Dubuis’ tribute to the Chinese Year of the Dragon. Roger Dubuis has skilfully crafted the dragon using 27 individual pieces of brass – each embellished with black lacquer on the sides and a pink gold treatment on the polished top surface. In typically inventive style, the pieces are set on 25 different levels, producing a 3D vision that is full of volume and vitality. Turn the watch over and the same flowing dragon appears – this time metallised on the inside of the caseback’s sapphire crystal, precisely matching the view from the front.

Roger Dubuis has coupled the design with the authority of its Monotourbillon Calibre RD512SQ – a high-performing flying tourbillon built from 63 components and carrying the prestigious Poinçon de Genève certification. The RD512SQ Calibre includes a lower tourbillon cage in non-magnetic titanium – twice lighter than stainless steel. Going even further, the upper tourbillon cage is produced in mirror-polished Cobalt Chrome – also non-magnetic – which enables the weight of the tourbillon to be reduced by 16%. As a result, the calibre shows a greater resistance to magnetic fields, while the power reserve is radically optimised to 72 hours. Sitting on the wrist, the 42 mm case of the watch is of pink gold and is mounted with a robust brass flange, which itself has been given a pink gold galvanic treatment, along with indexes filled with black Super-LumiNova. The black calf-skin leather strap of the watch features the versatile quick release system.

Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon
A limited edition of just 28 pieces, the Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon is instantly identifiable as a Roger Dubuis tourbillon timepiece. In the Calibre RD512SQ is seen many of the signature details of the maison, such as the positioning of the Monotourbillon at 7 o’clock, and a movement hand-decorated with 16 different types of remarkable finishing and carrying the Poinçon de Genève hallmark certification. The RD512SQ is also distinguished by its flying tourbillon cage construction, built from 63 components, with a lower cage in lightweight titanium and an upper bridge inspired by the Celtic Cross. Only being mounted on one side, with no supporting bridge on top, it presents a complex challenge of stability for the watchmakers while also being aesthetically pleasing.

By displaying the Monotourbillon within a skeletonised surrounding, complete with an astral signature, Roger Dubuis has combined exquisite function with uncluttered aesthetics. It is minimalism as much as sophistication. Grade 5 Titanium is the ultimate building block for case and notched bezel of this watch, which boasts 72 hours of power reserve. The watch’s fully metallic bracelet features three rows with expertly shortened links – a subtle rework of the articulation that enhances the way the bracelet rests and moves, while also ensuring adhesion to the wrist. The bracelet then seamlessly integrates with the buckle, delivering a look of continuity, alongside a Quick Release System for versatility.

Related Articles

Back to top button