The revival of Daniel Roth continues with the unveiling of the Tourbillon Rose Gold. Following the last year’s Tourbillon Souscription in yellow gold, a limited edition of 20 pieces, the emblematic Tourbillon now makes its debut in rose gold with a new guillochage en ligne dial
Inspired by the original Tourbillon C187, designed by Daniel Roth himself and the very first wristwatch with a large tourbillon showcased on the dial, the Tourbillon Rose Gold is dressed in the “pink on pink” livery revered by watch aficionados – the 5N rose gold case is matched with a 5N rose gold guilloche dial.
Within the rose gold double-ellipse case is the DR001 calibre, a movement developed entirely by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, the master watchmakers of Daniel Roth who are also the founders of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the manufacture responsible for crafting the calibre. While the DR001 was concealed behind a solid case back in the Tourbillon Souscription, the hand-finished movement now sits under a sapphire back in the Tourbillon Rose Gold, highlighting its refined decoration and traditional construction.
The Tourbillon Rose Gold will be individually numbered on the dial starting from “21”, following the Tourbillon Souscription that was numbered “01” to “20”. As a consequence of the natural constraints imposed by the high level of artisanal craft demanded by each watch, no more than 50 Daniel Roth Tourbillons will be produced each year.
For maximum visual impact, the Tourbillon Rose Gold employs the 5N alloy, an 18k gold alloy that is sometimes known as red gold. The 18k rose gold case takes the double-ellipse form, an iconic shape that was the foundation of Daniel Roth, having been created by Daniel Roth himself when he established the brand in 1988. An amalgamation of a square and a circle, the double-ellipse case was conceived to frame the visible tourbillon at 6 o’clock.
Indistinguishable from the original at the distance, the case seemingly reproduces the dimensions of the original C187 – but not exactly, as the slimness of the DR001 calibre allowed for reworked proportions that give the new case a more balanced profile. Another crucial element that was redesigned are the lugs, which are now gracefully curved to echo the rounded lines of the case while also being ergonomic.
The dial itself is in 5N rose gold, while the applied chapters and scales are in sterling silver. To complement the vivid pink of the dial, all of its markings are printed in glossy black lacquer and matched with black-coated stainless steel hands. Just as with the Tourbillon Souscription, the dial is produced in collaboration with the famed engine-turning atelier of Kari Voutilainen. The guilloche is done by hand with a manually operated straight-line engine that engraves each of the vertical lines one at a time. Each dial is a painstaking task that requires a sharp eye and deft hand, with the slightest mistake requiring the dial to be discarded.
The rose gold dial plate is decorated with guillochage en ligne, an engine-turned pattern of parallel, vertical lines identical to that found in most examples of the original C187. Visible in all its glory through the sapphire back, the DR001 movement exemplifies the art of watchmaking. Developed in-house and manufactured at La Fabrique du Temps, the DR001 is a new calibre conceived from the ground up, but one that pays homage to traditional Swiss watchmaking in both form and finish.
Shaped by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, the DR001 has been generously endowed with elements evocative of traditional haute horlogerie. This was hidden in the Tourbillon Souscription but can now be admired down to its smallest detail. The bridges of the DR001 are finished with Côtes de Genève with the stripes aligned vertically to mirror the linear guilloche on the dial. Each bridge is further enhanced by anglage, rounded, bevelled edges that are mirror polished, giving the bridges a radiant outline.
Furthermore, the wheel driving the tourbillon is held in place by a curved bridge of black-polished steel, while its pivot jewel sits in a gold chaton – one of three gold chatons in the movement. In black-polished steel is the linear winding click that creates the precise yet gentle sensation when winding the movement by hand.
But the exceptional hand finishing can also be savoured while the watch is on the wrist thanks to the tourbillon positioned at six o’clock. Framed by the fan-shaped tri-sectioned seconds, the tourbillon is a masterclass in traditional, haute horlogerie decoration. Both the tourbillon bridge and carriage are in steel that’s been polished by hand to a mirror finish. Even the screws holding the carriage together, which are amongst the tiniest components of the movement, are mirror polished on their heads and chamfered along their edges and slots.
