Moser & Cie. is innovating and revisiting its famous Perpetual 1 movement with its instantaneous date change function as a version featuring four central hands and a resolutely contemporary look. Not only that, the brand is making this timepiece part of its Streamliner collection to create the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar – the fusion of two icons
In 2005, H. Moser & Cie. marked its return to Haute Horlogerie by revolutionising the perpetual calendar with the Perpetual 1. Distinctly minimalist and understated, to the non-expert eye, this movement simply looks like a calibre with three hands plus the date. Simple in appearance and yet so ingenious, it immediately earned its place as one of the manufacture’s flagship products.
Launched in 2020, the Streamliner collection was an immediate hit, thus enabling H. Moser & Cie. to reach new heights. Representing another facet of the manufacture’s identity, the Streamliner was an obvious choice to serve as the showcase for the new perpetual calendar movement developed and produced by H. Moser & Cie.
The hand-wound HMC 812 calibre has the same advantages as the HMC 341 calibre, to which a direct-drive central seconds hand has been added. A masterpiece of simplicity and ingenuity, the HMC 812 uses the indices to indicate the months via a small red and white central hand. It has a guaranteed power reserve of 168 hours, displayed at 10 o’clock on the dial via an indicator. At 4 o’clock, a window indicates the date, in large format, thanks to two superimposed discs that operate one after the other, from 1 to 15 then from 16 to 31.
Aligned on the crown, the date window is positioned at an unusual angle that required the numerals to be tilted to 26°. The date changes in a flash at midnight thanks to the “Flash Calendar” instantaneous date-change mechanism, and it can be adjusted forwards or backwards at any time of day. In constant pursuit of minimalism, the leap year indicator is located on the movement side. Visible via the sapphire case-back, the HMC 812 calibre features an ultra-contemporary finish with the traditional Moser double horizontals stripes and an anthracite grey PVD coating on the balance bridges, train wheels, barrel and escapement plate. The main plate is microblasted and features anthracite rhodium plating.
The Streamliner Perpetual Calendar has perfectly rounded curves, evoking the very first high-speed trains from the Twenties and Thirties whose name it adopts. This shaped watch is equipped with a steel cushion case measuring 42.3 mm in diameter and is water-resistant to 12 ATM. Its off-centre crown, adorned with an “M”, is positioned at 4 o’clock. Designed as a truly sculptural piece, the case boasts harmonious proportions and beautiful aerodynamics. It is topped by a subtly domed Glassbox type sapphire crystal, echoed by the see-through case-back. These curves extend to the integrated steel bracelet, which is elegantly arced to follow the line of the wrist; the unique design of the links ensures that it sits perfectly on even the most slender of wrists.
Highly complex in construction, this bracelet has extremely fluid lines, based on organic forms. All the links are articulated and feature a gentle wave combining a vertical brushed finish with polished surfaces. The bezel has a sunray brushed finish; the case has alternating brushed and polished surfaces, with hollowed and satin-finished forms on the sides, in a nod to the traditional unusual shapes typical of Moser cases.
Around the edge of the brand’s signature fumé dial, the red and white outer minute track measures the movement of the central seconds hand. The seconds hand, the power reserve hand and the months hand are reminiscent of those on the dials of car dashboards or measuring instruments. The manufacture has chosen three-dimensional curved hands to indicate the hours and minutes, formed of two sections and featuring inserts made from Globolight, an innovative ceramic-based material which contains Super-LumiNova.
The philosophy of the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar is complexity made simple. Undoubtedly the purest, most ingenious and most practical perpetual calendar on the market.
