With the Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel, H. Moser & Cie. is combining exclusivity, performance, and craftsmanship in a single model – an objet d’art for those who appreciate discreetly refined, high-performance watchmaking. At the heart of a steel case with new lines, proportions and dimensions perfectly suited to its movement is the brand’s 18th Manufacture calibre
A true embodiment of H. Moser & Cie.’s technical and aesthetic prowess, this creation is set to become one of the must-have timepieces of the independent watchmaking world. Made of steel and measuring 39 mm in diameter, the cushion-shaped case of the Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel model is still water-resistant to 12 ATM and inspired by the curves and roundness of the first high-speed trains of the 20s and 30s, from which it takes its name.
However, its proportions have been reworked to give it more elongated lines, made possible by the smaller dimensions of the new calibre HMC 500. Integrated into the case, the steel bracelet is elegantly arced to extend the curves of the case. Highly complex in construction, it has extremely fluid lines, based on organic forms. The links, all unique and articulated, are the height of subtle sophistication, and supple flexibility.
To accentuate the steel of the case and bracelet, H. Moser & Cie. has chosen a Grand Feu enamel dial. Named “Aqua Blue”, it reinterprets the brand’s renowned signature fumé finish with the artistic flourish of a master craftsman. Starting with a pattern engrained onto a gold base, as if hammered, three different colour pigments are washed, finely crushed, then applied to create an ombré effect. Careful work and limitless patience are required for the master enameller to painstakingly apply the pigments, adding them one by one so that the colours oxidise and meld together when heated in the furnace, without any pixellation.
A translucent “Grand Feu” enamel dial must be fired twelve times in total to create the fumé effect, where the lighter shades in the centre gradually deepen. Each dial is unique. Steel applique indices punctuate the edge of the dial, which features no logo. To display the hours and minutes, the three-dimensional hands made from two sections feature inserts with Globolight, an innovative ceramic-based material containing Super-LumiNova. The offset small seconds is displayed at 6 o’clock on a lacquered sub-dial with a circular pattern, offering a beautiful contrast with the base dial.
Driving the Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel model, the new automatic calibre HMC 500 is 100% Moser, 100% Manufacture-made. It is the smallest movement H. Moser & Cie. has developed in the 21st century. The starting objective was to have a movement that was slim yet high performance. The atelier then spent a great deal of time working to optimise the dimensions, which is why they decided to integrate a micro-rotor for the first time in the marque’s history. Made from solid platinum, this micro-rotor is mounted on a ball bearing, equipped with a bi-directional pawl winding system, and offers sufficient barrel torque to provide a power reserve of 74 hours.
The brand had to develop new smaller, slimmer components and mechanisms that could then be integrated into the available volume. The escapement was also miniaturised, while ensuring its performance remained unchanged, a technical feat made possible thanks to the expertise of their sister company, Precision Engineering AG. Because of the volume, the torque, and the winding system, this was no easy task, but the result is a movement that will serve as a base for the watchmaker’s small cases, and will enable them to introduce new complications, by combining it with modules developed in-house or in collaboration with their partner Agenhor.
The calibre HMC 500 features open bridges with a highly contemporary finish, decorated with the traditional Moser stripes and an anthracite grey coating. The company hallmark is proudly showcased on the micro-rotor.
