Fuelled by obsessive creativity and a passion for craftsmanship in all its facets, the newly founded Charles Zuber brand is revealing its first high jewellery line Pomander – a collection that takes the ancient aesthetic codes of the pomander and reinterprets them with a resolutely contemporary visual and textural language
Pomander fuses the mastery of jewellery techniques with evocative stones in a culmination of beautiful and unique designs. With its iconic pointed arc shape, delicately held by a protective mesh of threads so fine they seem to disappear, Pomander brings together the rarest materials, like angel’s hair crystal with its threads of finest red-gold rutiles that shimmer with an ethereal quality. Charles Zuber explores an infinite spectrum of variations of Pomander: rings, necklaces, earrings, studs, and studded cuffs.
The name Pomander came naturally – in it everything this object inspires is encompassed. With its iconic roundly tapered end, delicately held by a protective mesh of threads so fine they seem to disappear, Pomander sets the light free to play off its precious and semi-precious stones.
As they explore the infinite possibilities for jewellery creation, the Charles Zuber atelier applied the art of spider setting to the best practices of high jewellery, eschewing any form of bonding. Thus, a precious metal claw discreetly surrounds the polished surfaces, bringing out the distinctive shape and depth of this generous dome cut from lavender or black jade, violet amethyst, or from turquoise with lagoon reflections.
Angel’s hair crystal
The innovation of the Pomander collection lies in the use of rutilated quartz, also called angel’s hair crystal, a rare material in haute jewellery. True to the bold spirit of the designer Charles Zuber, the brand rose to the challenge, capturing the stone’s fascinating aesthetic and almost organic texture.
Long considered a worthless mineral, rutilated quartz is like a diamond in the rough. Indeed, towards the middle of the 20th century, designers and collectors began to appreciate the ethereal beauty of rutilated quartz, so named because of the inclusions that take on reddish and golden tones (hence ‘rutile’); because they evoke shimmering strands of golden hair, this stone is often referred to as angel’s hair quartz. Symbolically, angel’s hair quartz is connected to the higher realms. It is said to be a stone of celestial power, uplifting and illuminating for the soul, amplifying intention and enhancing intuition.
Charles Zuber, the legend
Born in 1932 in the mystical town of Kriens, Switzerland, Karl Zuber realised his relentless true passion at an early age, unearthing an aptitude for creating works of art. At 15, he dropped out of school to pursue an apprenticeship with the renowned Lucerne-jeweller, Burger. Mesmerised by the aesthetic beauty of metallics and gemstones, the earnestness he acquired during this apprenticeship eventually manifested into a reality.
The “Etoile de Lucerne” was a star designed by Karl as a submission to the town’s annual competition. The star, which remains an homage to the artist to this day, continues to glimmer in the streets of Lucerne; a glistening ode to the birth of a creative genius.
Years later, after completing his obligatory military service in the early 50s, he pursued his longing to create and left his hometown to settle in the jewellery haven of Geneva. He would go on to receive his certification as a Master Jeweller, allowing him to truly devote himself to his passion. Over time, Karl brought his visionary dreams to life through his craft. Craving to become integrated into the French- Swiss community, Karl soon changed his name to Charles; a rebellious decision to subtly transform into the master he would become.
Charles would go on to sharpen his jewellery-making skills by attending night classes at Beaux-Arts and working at various jewellery entities, garnering the knowledge and precise craftsmanship that would continue to manifest in his lifetime. In 1962 Charles opened his first jewellery workshop, Ch. Zuber & R. Baumgartner in a suburb of Geneva, designing for Piaget as a first client. By the time Charles was 75 years of age, he had propelled his career to unimaginable heights. His desire to devote his time to his loved ones resulted in the decision to sell his company to two independent gem setters with whom he had frequently worked in the past. Charles passed away in 2012, with a brand yet to be realised for the true gem it would have been.
Today, the spirit of Charles Zuber is brought back to life in a daring approach to luxury, an exuberant neo-Swiss experience.
