“At Louis Moinet, we do artâ€
Exceptional creativity is a term best used to describe the independent watchmaker’s presentation at the 2015 Baselworld. Louis Moinet introduced three atypical and sensational novelties at this year’s most exciting international industry event. The brand maintains its unique use of exotic materials, and sets an unprecedented new horological milestone with its extraordinary new chronograph movement
The highlight from Louis Moinet’s 2015 novelties is a timepiece which honours the memory of the brand’s remarkable founding father and namesake. The Memoris is a progressive creation which has been launched at a historic crossroads: the Ateliers’ tenth anniversary, and the bi-centenary of the world’s first chronograph invented by Louis Moinet. Breaking new watchmaking ground at a pivotal point in time for the brand, Louis Moinet’s Memoris is the first ever “chronograph watch”. Simply put, in this case, the chronograph has become the primary function, and time has been developed into the watch as a complication. While the concept seems simple in theory, making it a reality proved to be a three-year challenge for Louis Monet, from conception to production.
Sharing its strategic thinking with Concepto, the movement manufacturer that has worked alongside the brand since its outset, Louis Moinet applied the usual set of watchmaking considerations to the chronograph, determining what has to be highlighted, what techniques should be used, and what should be displayed. A comprehensive understanding of watchmaking history led to the conclusion that any noble chronograph must undoubtedly have a traditional clutch column wheel. Tradition also dictated that the watch should feature a monopusher, the most delicate part of the exercise. And given its central role, it made sense to highlight the chronograph by having it occupy pride of place on the dial. Astonishingly, with Memoris, the entire chronograph function has been shifted to the dial.
Practically every decorative item was redeveloped by Louis Moinet to enhance the unique “chronograph watch”; including a new case, new hands, a new dial, a new oscillating weight, a new folding clasp, and more. In true Louis Moinet fashion, synthetic gemstones are also exclusively incorporated, with black zircon in a screwed setting used decoratively on the case horns. The 46mm-diameter timepiece is available in pink gold or white gold, in three limited editions of just 60 pieces each. ‘Day & Night’ had the opportunity to catch up with Louis Moinet’s CEO, Jean-Marie Schaller during Baselworld this year, amid the excitement of the revolutionary new release.
In your own words, what makes the Memoris so special?
There is nothing like this in the industry, and we were inspired to do something completely different with the chronograph complication when we discovered that Louis Moinet invented the first chronograph in 1816. Memoris is the first ever chronograph watch, it is not built like traditional watch, which is developed with the usual hours and minutes function base movement and then you add the complication – either a tourbillon, perpetual calendar or chronograph – with Memoris, the approach is entirely different, the chronograph is built first. It is a whole new development that has taken us three years, with 302 parts; every part is new, and every part belongs to this Manufacture movement. With Louis Moinet, what we do is art and not mass production, so the calibre of timepieces that we create, can only be made as limited editions, which is also what makes this timepiece so special.
Louis Moinet has focussed its timepieces primarily on tourbillons for a good few years now; with the launch of Memoris, can we expect more of a shift towards chronographs?
For us, Memoris is really a flagship product, it captures the essence of Louis Moinet and we want to try and leverage it for many years to come as a reflection of what we want to offer to the market. It is really quite special.
Can we expect to see a stainless steel version of the Memoris?
For the time being, we have the chronograph in white gold and pink gold, and next year we anticipate presenting it in stainless steel.
What are some of your other 2015 novelties?
We have two other products, one is the Astromoon; it includes an aventurine dial which looks like a starry night, and it boasts three functions, the tourbillon, the chronograph and then the moon phase, which has been crafted from genuine moon meteorite – something that has travelled 380,000kms to land on Earth. The other 2015 novelty is the Derrick Gaz featuring automaton; this watch is based on the traditional gas extraction systems of the nineteenth century, and is fitted with an expansive tourbillon.
How would you rate the current state of the Middle East market for Louis Moinet?
The Middle East has been one of our top three markets alongside Russia and America. Personally, it is one of my favourite markets which I always enjoy visiting. I like the way that business is conducted in the region, the approach is more amiable, and not too commercial. Many places in the Middle East have been extremely successful for Louis Moinet. We began our partnership with Damas in Dubai last year and we have seen very positive sales results; we have some fresh additions, like Behbehani in Kuwait, Al Fardan in Qatar, who have been with us a bit longer, and we have seen very good sales results from Qatar as well. Saudi Arabia is a brand new point of sale for us via Damas, and we will see how that goes.
