Best of Watches & Wonders 2021
The feature is written by Saud Alyaqout who is a watch blogger, content creator, and educator since 2017. He blogs and vlogs @compwiths while posting regularly on Instagram. He is mostly known for his translations on watch complications from French and English to Arabic; he has coined dozens of words that are widely used today by Arabic watch aficionados
Watches & Wonders 2021 was in two parts, one was digital, April 7-13, followed by an actual show in Shanghai, China, April 14-18. The challenge was that while nothing beats a watch in the hand (no pun intended), marketing teams from top brands had to make the end-user feel as if the watch is. Zoom presentations and conferencing while sharing footage and pictures of the watches was the direction they took. The theme this year was mostly enhancing earlier breakthroughs. It might sound as if industry leaders are being lazy, but given the tough circumstance, who would blame them? On the other hand, enhancing a successful model doesn’t sound like a bad idea, Rolex thrived on it and still does…
A. Lange & Söhne
Since the first Lange 1, nothing has changed about the design but everything around it and in it has been a work in progress. The Glashütte giants unveiled the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar. Two versions were introduced: a white gold version with a pink gold dial, and a pink gold edition with a grey dial. The best feature about it is that all the indicators change instantaneously at the end of every month.
Arnold & Son
My Muslim readers would have wished the Luna Magna was introduced before Ramadan so that they could have seen the moonphase edging towards this holy month with the largest moon – at 12mm, made of marble and aventurine glass – ever put on a wrist watch. The brand shares this space with Konstantin Chaykin’s Lunokhod. The dial of the Luna Magna is of glass and the moon gives the true feeling of a hovering element in the sky. It also shows the dark and the light side of the moon, and if set right, remains accurate for almost 122 years.
Baume & Mercier
The iconic Riviera is back in production, much more handsome and enhanced. The dodecagonal bezel sports watch from Baume & Mercier comes in a larger, more generous steel case of 42mm and a smaller 36 mm. The newer version houses the Baumatic, the successful in-house calibre. The shape retains the original art work design but has been adjusted positively to fit latest trends. One of my favourite aspects are the sapphire dials in blue and black, adding complexity to a very straight-forward sports watch.
Bvlgari
Seven years: 7 world records. For 2021, Bulgari introduced the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar, the world’s thinnest perpetual calendar at only 5.75mm. The case and dial are integrated and are made of sand-blasted titanium for a matte effect. The beautifully decorated movement has a micro-rotor of platinum for higher rotational mass and ease-of-winding this automatic movement. The star of the show is the dial with a monochrome simple design and a firework silhouette with the leap-year indicator as the firing rack. Simply ingenious.
Carl F. Bucherer
The Lucerne-based maison Carl F. Bucherer has presented a flower from each of their collections. The crème de la crope is their Manero Minute Repeater Symphony. Probably the most complex masterpiece ever created at Carl F. Bucherer, this behemoth has a flying tourbillon that regulates a minute repeater. The shape of the gongs visible on the dial is pure aesthetics reminiscent of the architecture in Lucerne.
Cartier
Following the success of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual, Cartier introduced their own colour gambit. The Tank Must de Cartier trio with the successful “must-have” collection introduced in the eighties was an instant success. It is still a Must but Cartier went – bigger, better, brighter! Introducing burgundy, blue and green (all limited). The case is larger and the movement – even though quartz – matches up to 21st century standards with a Solar Beat photovoltaic movement (life span of 16 years).
Chanel
For 2021, Chanel fashionably dressed the already “21 years running” successful J12 with a black ceramic and colourful number (12 to be exact). The automatic 38mm makes is easier to be a unisex watch than just a ladies’ watch with its in 70-hour power reserve and the automatic caliber 12.1. Chanel has also introduced the J12 in an haute horlogerie edition dripping gemstones and diamonds.
Chopard
One of my favourite brands is Chopard. Chopard celebrates the 25th anniversary of its L.U.C with an array of fantastic haute horlogerie pieces, starting with the L.U.C QF Jubilee, which is the star of the show, in my opinion, sadly limited to 25 pieces. The QF Jubilee is the embodiment of Chopard’s vision as certified watchmakers with a nose for refinement.
Chronoswiss
The skeletonising artists from Lucerne have introduced the Open Gear Resec Paraiba. The watch features a guilloche dial with a special CVD-coating that enables it to change colours as it is moved. The dial itself consists of 42 pieces, housed in the brand’s iconic coin-shaped dial. Following months of tests, this regulator has a dial that shifts in colour from turquoise to petrol blue depending on the light and angle. Paraiba tourmaline – a gemstone from north-eastern Brazil, and among the world’s rarest – is the inspiration for this dial.
Corum
Inspired by the great sailing races and the oceans, the Corum Admiral collection is back, with a very advanced and modern masterpiece of a watch. The Admiral 45 Openworked Tourbillon comes in a carbon/gold case. The beauty of the dial is it is not “see through” per se but everything floats on top of a matte black background, which displays every element to perfection.
Ferdinand Berthoud
Looking at the tourbillon through a window on the side of the dial is the least sophisticated thing about Ferdinand Berthoud’s Régulateur Squelette. Limited to only 20 examples, you can choose between a round or octagonal case. It is the first skeleton movement produced by the manufacture that has a tourbillon regulated by a fusée-and-chain. The caseback is nothing short of mesmerising, with a few patents such as the power reserve indicator.
Greubel Forsey
The first metal bracelet in the history of Greubel Forsey is introduced in 2021. Their newest GMT Sport model, an updated version of the titanium GMT Sport, is now outfitted with what looks to be a hand-finished integrated bracelet – nothing less than what you would expect from the super duo. Naming it as a sports model does not mean it doesn’t get the Greubel Forsey treatment, the three-dimensional world-time and an inclined tourbillon. They have spent more time on the bracelet than 70% of manufactures would spend on a whole watch.
Hermès
Hermès has come up with an all-new line H08, an all-terrain TV-shaped watch. The Paris-based power house did not sacrifice any of its glamour creating a sport watch. It remains quite elegant despite its debut as a sport watch. The H08 has not 1 or 2, but 5 iterations of the new tool watch (if we can term anything by Hermès as a “tool”). Hermès uses different materials ranging from graphene (first used by Richard Mille) to titanium. One edition is DLC-coated to give an all-black appearance. Powering the watch is the Hermès caliber H1837. A modern look in 39mm, befitting the modern man.
H. Moser & Cie.
Standing out from the crowd has become the brand ethos for H. Moser & Cie. This year, it has collaborated with seconde/seconde, the French artist who switches indicator hands with pixelated icons, and unveiled the Endeavour Centre Seconds X Seconde/Seconde/. An Endeavour Centre Seconds watch in steel and Funky Blue fumé dial has its hour indicator replaced with an eraser, reminding us of the removed indices and logo.
Hublot
If the Invisible Man had a choice of watch to suit his super-power, it would be the Big Bang Unico Integral Sapphire. Almost everything that can be, has been turned to sapphire, including the bracelet. As if a sapphire integral bracelet isn’t enough, Hublot has topped it with a tourbillon – this time with bridges of sapphire, not resin. Hublot also introduced an haute joaillerie edition, in other words, every millimetre of it is covered in baguettes (484 pieces or 31 carats).
IWC
Capable of withstanding up to 30,000 G was the headline that caught everyone’s eyes; anything closest to that had a price tag of over half-a-million dollars. The Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL is the first IWC watch to feature the patented SPRIN-G PROTECT system. At the heart of this system is a cantilever spring that protects the movement against the G-forces generated by impacts.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
The most complicated Reverso ever, and most probably the most complicated wrist watch too. The Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque) is a mouthful, but so are the functions of this watch and the complicated mechanical marvels squashed into this 51mm x 31mm watch. The watch features 11 complications and is regulated by the company’s own flying tourbillon. A minute repeater is the cherry on top.
Louis Moinet
Louis Moinet isn’t about new patents or a watch sandwiched with complications for 2021. It actually is about the stories of mankind. Two series launched depict the transcendence of mankind. The canvas of these stories are the watch dials. The first series is the eight wonders of the world; each wonder is displayed on a 47mm watch with a tourbillon and they come stored in a single travel trunk collector box. This series narrates the tales of Louis Moinet’s travels from China to South America.
Louis Vuitton
Seize the day or “carpe diem” is what Louis Vuitton wants you to do in this ingenious and functional automaton (or jacquemart) that shows the time on-demand without using hands. The Tambour Carpe Diem is one of the most complicated skull watches out there, and ever since the establishment of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton – the manufacture – the brand has been investing in haute horlogerie. The watch took two years to develop, and the dial, snake, and teeth decorations have been hand-executed by master enameller Anita Porchet, with engravings done by Dick Steenman.
Maurice Lacroix
Maurice Lacroix for 2021 took a step forward in its urban-inspired, dynamic Aikon line. The new Aikon Master Grand Date features a completely new movement, partially open-worked to reveal its complexity and technical savoir-faire. With an offset dial, and an offset open-worked beating balance wheel, and large window date, Maurice Lacroix is stating that they are going to only further their complications in the Aikon Line.
Montblanc
After acquiring Minerva, Montblanc has shifted its dynamic from watches that go nicely with pens, to extreme haute horlogerie. The theme of this year’s release is honouring Minerva as a legend, and legends alike – from the 1858 Geosphere that honours adventurer Reinhold Messner’s 2004 solo trek across the Gobi Desert to reintroducing watches and legendary movements from Minerva. The legends start with the 46 mm military monopusher chronograph equipped with the caliber 19-09CH found on the new 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Origins LE 100.
NOMOS Glashütte
NOMOS Glashütte has introduced a new edition of the “Alpha” calibre watch, the Club Campus. Supposed to be a graduation gift, it retails at around US$ 2000. NOMOS has introduced two colours in 2 sizes – Absolute Grey and Future Orange, with a California dial. The grey dial represents longevity and the orange dial, future prospects. Both have a sealed case back ready for engraving – for free! The sizes are 36mm and 38 mm, with a manual alpha calibre movement.
Oris
Light at the end of a long dark tunnel is what Oris has called their Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’ collection – a spring breeze of pink, mint, and baby blue. Fun colours in a bronze shell, contrast oh so nicely. These watches have only one objective – to bring a smile.
Panerai
For 2021, Panerai has followed the likes of Nike to produce a watch with highest percentage of recycled materials. Their two watches that feature recyclable materials are the Panerai Submersible eLAB-ID with more than 80% recycled content; even the Super-Luminova is 100% recycled. The second edition is Luminor Marina eSteel; all components are made of recycled-based materials, corresponding to 58. 4% of the watch’s total weight.
Patek Philippe
The most remarkable use of “inline” since the Karl Benz motor in 1886 is the Patek Phillipe 5236P; except that instead of 4 cylinders, Patek has used 4 discs to display this “dry cleaner” of busy dials complication, leaving you with what is instantly recognisable: a Calatrava complicated work of art. The 5236P is a true offspring of the Geneva maison targeted for collectors and connoisseurs. The inline calendar isn’t new to Patek Phillipe but it has never been seen on a wrist watch. The first implementation was on the pocket watch P-1450 dating back to 1972.
Piaget
This year, Piaget didn’t introduce any new models, but has face-lifted and sparkled a few. Originally introduced in 1979, the Piaget Polo got the Altaplano workaround and got skeletonised last year. This year, new metal/colour combos and stones have been added. The skeleton now comes in a blue on gold case for 2021, in addition to high jewellery editions. The most interesting is the Altiplano Ultimate Concept – what’s new? Construction integrity, made by adding cobalt to enhance the structural integrity.
Purnell
Purnell is a high-end luxury brand specialising in tourbillons. For the 220th anniversary of the first tourbillon ever conceived (by Abraham Breguet), Purnell decided to make their Spherion (a triple axis tourbillon) float in air. The case and dial have transformed into sapphire, leaving the two gorgeous spinning cages almost floating in mid-air. The Spherion cages are blued titanium, and contrast with diamonds fitted perfectly, while the dial has baguette blue sapphires.
Rebellion
I feel like I need to mention Rebellion’s leap in terms of ladies’ watches. The last I remember seeing a rugged all-terrain watch that was also haute horlogerie was the Lady Offshore, which I presume is now discontinued. Though the Predator S Black Rainbow is what Rebellion calls a conventional woman’s watch, it is far from conventional. The timepiece features clusters of multi-coloured sapphires in a rainbow pattern on the bezel with a lot of racing attitude and a 42mm diameter case.
Ressence
If you could fit a F.P. Journe Elegante inside a mechanical watch and then let Iron Man design it for you, the product would be the Ressence Type 2N. The hybrid technology is simplified in what Ressence calls an e-Crown; set it once and forget it. The first time around, you set the watch manually; using solar power, the watch is able to cut off mechanical power and reintroduce it once the watch is put back on. Not only that, but it is able, with a couple taps on the crystal, to set the time exactly. Simply genius.
Roger Dubuis
The creative team at Roger Dubuis have fitted different colours of Super-Luminova behind the diamonds on the Excalibur Glow Me Up!, which gives the diamonds different colours and hues based on how and where the light falls. Each diamond on the Excalibur Glow Me Up! bezel (60 to be exact) has grooves cut into it for an invisible setting. The case and tourbillon movement have also been updated. The Roger Dubuis logo and the starry skeletonised bridge have got the same Super-Luminova treatment. A world premiere, the Excalibur Glow Me Up! is limited to 8 pieces.
Rolex
For 2021 Rolex has updated three of its most iconic watches. Dropping the 39mm size, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer is going back to 36mm, the same size as the original watch that accompanied Sir Edmund Hillary on his first ascent of Mount Everest in 1953. The watch features Rolesor (combining Oystersteel and 18 ct yellow gold) as a two-tone version with a black dial.
Speake-Marin
The British brand operating from Switzerland has always been a bridge between the two worlds when it comes to watchmaking. For 2021, they have introduced a minty twist on the earlier One&Two Openworked Dual Time. The new watch remains in the brand’s Piccadilly case, but the new colour combinations (mint, silver, and black) the brand has released is inspired by the “Black Architecture” movement. The watch is powered by Speake-Marin’s caliber SMA02 and availability will be 10 pieces for the 38mm version and 18 pieces for the 42mm.
Tag Heuer
The new and improved Aquaracer for 2021 is a dive watch that takes its looks from the original Aquaracer that was born amidst the quartz crisis, but jacks up everything on horological steroids. There is a new ceramic bezel with a fluted edge for easier control. The teeth within the bezel are smoother and easily adjustable. The nipple indicators and sword hands are widened, and covered in Super-Luminova for greater visibility. There are three versions in steel, titanium, and the vintage “Tribute” version based on the 1972 ref 844. All new Aquaracers are powered by Tag Heuer’s Caliber 5.
Trilobe
For 2021, Trilobe has introduced Fantastic Night. The watch does not put emphasis on time itself but on the poetry of the night; the seconds and hours are off-centre in an “infinity” like frame, to signify that your night is still young and time is endless. The watch operates on 3 discs – hours, minutes and seconds – all regulated by an X-Centric calibre. It derives its artful presence from the Parisian structure of elegance. This is a watch you would wear to completely forget about time and enjoy a fantastic night. Fantastic Night is available in silver, black, night blue and “Secret” editions.
Tudor
The waiting list due to the pandemic has hit Rolex, and has hit it hard. And that is just me talking about a regular Oyster Perpetual. If you opt for the legendary Daytona in steel, good luck getting it within the next three years or so. And there enters one of my favourite releases; what you would call a “sleeper”. Sister company Tudor introduces the 50th anniversary Black Bay Chronograph that shares the colour combination of its older sibling (Rolex Daytona) – white dial with black subdials (panda) and all-new black with white sub dials (reverse panda).
Ulysse Nardin
Of all offerings celebrating the company’s 175th anniversary, Ulysse Nardin’s UFO is worth talking about. if Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Atmos was on steroids, this would be the baby it would have had with an MB&F watch. A table clock developed in collaboration with Maison L’Epée, it comprises 675 components and can calculate 3 time zones.
Vacheron Constantin
The brand has introduced a Traditionnelle split-seconds chronograph ultra-thin, however it’s part of the Collection Excellence Platine range, meaning everything – well almost everything – in the watch is made of, yes you guessed it, platinum. This Traditionnelle Split Second may be the most beautiful split second watch ever made by the brand.
Zenith
The Defy Xtreme comes in the Defy tradition of extreme function and form, in a 45mm case featuring a skeletonised movement with two escapements – one for the watch itself at 5 Hz and the other for the 110th of second chronograph at 50 Hz. So, if you are diving at 200 meters and decide to track your dive time to 100th of a second – this is the watch to do it. It comes in titanium with black and blue finishes or at the higher end with rose gold inserts.
