Following the launch of the new-generation Type XX in June 2023, Breguet continues to develop the line by welcoming a civilian version in gold, incorporating ceramic. The new timepiece adds a number of fresh features to the fourth-generation range, including the first gold bezel with a bidirectional ring made of ceramic
Like the versions released in June 2023, this new timepiece draws inspiration from the emblematic watches dating back to the collection’s origins. Gold was indeed chosen for very rare timepieces in 1955, notably Breguet No. 1780, which now belongs to the Breguet Museum. There were only three gold timepieces in this small series, called either Type 20 (military version) or Type XX (civilian version). As for the bezel contrasting with the case, they appeared on the second generation of Type XXs dating from the 1970s, which were adorned with different graduations such as tachymeter scales, or with GMT indications.
These historical references blend with the emblematic codes of the civilian Type XX. The 15-minute counter is located at 3 o’clock, the 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock and the running seconds at 9 o’clock. Just as in the military-inspired version, the size of the counters differs to make the dial more dynamic and legible. The Arabic numerals, the hands and the triangle on the bezel are covered in a white luminescent coating. The date window appears between 4 and 5 o’clock. The 42 mm-diameter rose gold case is fitted with a fluted bidirectional graduated bezel. Its classic straight-line crown can be set in three different positions – neutral, winding; date setting; and time setting. The 2 o’clock pusher is used to start and stop the chronograph function, while the 4 o’clock pusher serves to reset the chronograph and restart it immediately, the famous “flyback” function.
This new model is presented in a havana-coloured leather box reminiscent of an aircraft wing profile. It is delivered with both alligator leather and NATO straps, in midnight blue. The NATO strap is embellished with white piping. The interchangeable strap system enables the leather strap to be removed easily, independently and tool-free. Simply pressing the pushers beneath the lugs makes it possible to attach and detach the two halves of the leather strap, while the NATO strap slips between the two bars, passing under the case.
The graduated, bidirectional rotating bezel in gold features a blue ceramic ring that contrasts elegantly with the gold of the case and numerals, while harmoniously blending with the dial colour. The dial’s sunburst blue hue is reminiscent of the variations in the sky after sunset. To add depth, the three counters feature a snailed motif. Finally, the numerals are in gold and filled with luminescent material.
Released in 2023 after four years of development, the Calibre 728 movement was conceived, developed and finalised within the Manufacture Breguet. It is of course equipped with a “flyback” function. Prior to its creation, three operations were required instead of just one. The new calibre’s innovative start and reset systems have been designed to ensure that they can be used smoothly and accurately. Whatever function is used, the pressure exerted on the pushers is even and balanced. As for the vertical clutch mechanism, it was chosen for its precision upon starting. Finally, to ensure the robustness of the movement and guarantee its precision in the event of shocks, the Maison opted for a cross-through bridge to hold the balance wheel in place.
Designed to take up as much of the space available in the movement as possible, the barrel providing the energy is fitted with a spring whose high-energy-density material provides a longer 60-hour power reserve.
A great deal of effort has gone into the aesthetics of the movement and its decoration: in addition to the sunburst motif, snailing, chamfering, circular graining and other visible decorations on the components, the brand has given the column wheel a black treatment combining contrast with tribological improvement. The sapphire crystal caseback reveals not only the details of the movement but also its oscillating weight. The blackened gold oscillating weight is shaped like an aircraft wing and engraved with the Breguet logo.
As early as 1949, Breguet developed chronographs with the famous special function that was soon named “flyback”. This considerably simplified the use of the chronograph, thanks to the reset function that instantly restarted the chronograph at the touch of a pusher, a time-saver much appreciated by pilots. In 1952, Breguet was informed that a bid for tender was to be organised by the French Air Force and submitted models to the Service Technique Aéronautique. In the spring of 1953, these models were approved under the name Type 20. This paved the way for official orders and in 1954, a very large order involving 1,100 units for the French Air Force was placed, followed in 1958 by a 500-unit order for the French Naval Aviation. The first civilian Type XXs were sold in 1953. Today, the legend continues with a fourth generation of Type XXs.
