Storied and historic watchmaker Breguet debuted a new Type XX – this time, issued in two versions: one military-inspired and the other drawing on the finest civilian models – at a gala event in Paris that took place over two days and was attended by collectors and journalists. Lionel a Marca, CEO of Breguet, explains what Type XX means for the brand, then and now…
Can you tell us about the historical importance of the Type XX for Breguet?
The importance of watchmaking in aviation has largely been forgotten, but the Breguet family is associated with aviation and one branch of the family – Louis Charles Breguet’s – was actively involved in the field, while the other continued in watchmaking. Watchmaking in service of aviation forms an important chapter in the history of the brand. Pilot watches are as important to Breguet as any other chapter.
Why make two editions of the watch – one civilian and one military?
Breguet decided to develop two watches on the basis of one movement. Each of them met specific codes; the military watch was the original and it conformed to standards that were defined by the French air force for its pilots. The editions differ also in the size of totalisers and in other details. Each watch is geared towards a particular audience; the military watch is more for collectors and the civilian watch is aimed towards the general public.
Was it originally intended to unveil the watches earlier?
No, the timing was chosen when we could guarantee stock availability in our stores worldwide at launch. The fact that the name Type XX was created in the spring of 1953 was a happy coincidence.
Why did you choose a green luminous material on the military watch – especially from the perspective of design and the history of the watch?
This is inspired basically from the way watches were designed in those days, as the French military specifications required green luminescence on the dials. It is no longer required; we could not create the exact green as it cannot be acquired without the use of materials such as radium. This resulted in a slight difference in colour.
How did you determine the pricing of these new models?
Is the DLC coating on the Type XX used to reduce friction?
Yes, but it is also more for aesthetic reasons; we have used it for the interplay with the oscillating weights. We used DLC coating for contrasting effects on the column wheel and oscillating weight.
Was the escape wheel, which is quite unusual in shape, designed specifically for this watch?
When you use silicon, we can create different shapes for the escape wheel. This is what we have done for this watch; if you notice, we have different shapes for the escape wheel in all Breguet watches. Yes, this is purpose-built for this watch because the entire calibre is a new one, totally built from the scratch.
One of the striking features of the latest edition of Type XX is the inclusion of the date and the positioning of the date aperture; why the change?
If we hadn’t included a calendar, some people would have asked for one. We placed this counter after much thought had been given to its positioning, in order to ensure good legibility of the other information. This fourth generation is inspired by the original timepiece that was based on military specifications. If we had created an exact replica of the original watch, this edition would have been with a manual winding as well as a closed back to respect the criteria of the time. We wanted to offer a watch inspired by the original, but with a new movement entirely manufactured by Breguet.
There would be quite a few collectors who may perhaps like a model without a date; how would you answer them?
There is nothing to prevent us from making another watch without a date aperture. These two timepieces announce the beginning of the collection that will be developed in the next few years. These two pieces announce the start of a Type XX collection that will be enhanced in the future with new versions, dial colours and potentially different sizes and materials.
In today’s world of polarising tastes and vocal critics, how does a brand like Breguet with its long history and DNA strike a balance?
We often get the feeling from our collectors that they want to hang onto the past. Breguet is not allowed to evolve, not allowed to introduce new features and new functionalities as it may impact the DNA of the brand. This is difficult as we want the brand to evolve and change with the times. There has been a lot of resistance to steel and titanium; we almost have an obligation to use gold or gold and platinum. Abraham-Louis Breguet was an innovator, an avant-garde watchmaker who never copied what other brands did; if he had, the brand would not have had such a storied history. If we are to continue to only replicate what we have been creating in the past, how do we step into the future? Our past creations cannot be used for replication, but only as an inspiration.
While we are fully respectful of our collectors and aficionados who are quite enthusiastic about the brand Breguet and our creations, we also have to remember that when someone is debating between the various brands before buying a watch, he or she may not actually be very keen on the history of the brand or how it is epitomised in the watch but is more interested in the aesthetic and technical aspects of a Breguet watch.
Type XX – the new editions
This collection, enjoying iconic status for nearly 70 years, has accompanied the history of aviation – whether on pilots’ wrists as a precision instrument or on those of ordinary amateur enthusiasts. The year 2023 brings a new Type XX, with an all-new calibre. Four years of preparation preceded the arrival of the new Type XX watches – the Type 20 Chronographe 2057 and the Type XX Chronographe 2067.
Type 20 Chronographe 2057
This timepiece is inspired by the 1100 models delivered to the French Air Force between 1955 and 1959, whose name appeared as Type 20 in Arabic numerals, unlike all the others. Its black dial has been modernised while remaining faithful to the Type 20 identity. The Arabic numerals and the triangle on the bezel are luminescent and feature a mint green shade, as do all the hands. The 30-minute totaliser located at 3 o’clock is now larger than the 60-second totaliser at 9 o’clock, and a date window appears between 4 and 5 o’clock.
The 42 mm steel case is fitted with a non-engraved fluted bidirectional bezel, as in the original. The crown reflecting the original pear shape is adjustable in three positions: neutral, date correction, and time setting. The 2 o’clock pusher serves to activate the chronograph and to start and stop the watch, while the one at 4 o’clock serves for the “flyback” function and to reset the chronograph and the minute totaliser.
Type XX Chronographe 2067
This second timepiece is a direct descendant of the finest civilian Type XX model made in 1957, the 2988. While its dial is black as the 2057, it differs in several respects. The 15-minute totaliser is located at 3 o’clock, the 12-hour one at 6 o’clock and running seconds at 9 o’clock. As in the military-inspired version, the totalisers are sized differently. The Arabic numerals, hands and the triangle on the bezel are coated with an ivory-coloured luminescent treatment. The date window appears between 4 and 5 o’clock.
The 42 mm steel case features a fluted bidirectional graduated bezel. Its classic straight crown enables setting in three positions – neutral, date correction, and time setting. The 2 o’clock pusher starts and stops the chronograph functions, while the one at 4 o’clock resets and restarts the chronograph immediately, based on the famous “flyback” principle.
Both watches are delivered in a Havana-coloured leather presentation box reminiscent of an aircraft wing. Enabling owners to vary the look according to their personal wishes, the military version has a black leather strap and a NATO strap while the civilian one has a beige or Havana leather strap and a black NATO strap, all easily interchangeable, contained in its case.
