Bvlgari creates another watchmaking history

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Watches

After garnering the title as the maker of the thinnest tourbillon in the world, the highly distinguished luxury brand, Bvlgari, has showcased another outstanding feat in horology with the unveiling of its newest record-breaking timepiece at Baselworld 2016, the world’s thinnest minute repeater: The Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater

With its case measuring merely 6.85mm thick and 40mm wide, and its movement BVL Calibre 362 measuring by only 3.12mm thick, the latest 50-piece limited edition Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater of Bvlgari has been crowned the star of the show, and stolen the attention of the watch critics, experts and aficionados at the Baselworld 2016.

To further understand the genesis of the ultra-thin minute repeater, Day & Night magazine sat with the Bvlgari’s Chief Executive Officer, Jean-Christophe Babin, to talk about this incredible addition to its long standing heritage as well as the brand’s mission to capture the desire of the male watch connoisseurs.

What is the story behind the birth of the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater?

The idea to pursue innovative and creative mechanical movements was developed internally as early as 2012 and 2013. We thought to bring the male watch fanatics something totally elegant and greatly desirable. With this objective, we established our targets and built our roadmaps for crafting attractive movements. The thinnest tourbillon launched in 2014 was already in development so the concept also contributed to the development of this minute repeater. It took us about four to six years to develop but I knew that this watch will make us shine. Bvlgari has been a master of chimes from our past creations, and so being our signature, I had no doubts that we would be able to release a beautiful and elegant timepiece with fascinating sounding chime.

How did you manage to craft such a clean sound to this minute repeater?

We were inspired to create the chime to sound like music, and we did. We encountered various construction constraints that required our distinctive and extensive experience to create the crystal-clear chime to this elegant piece. We had to bring out our innovative skills in order to recreate the dynamic sound, and after several discussions, we decided to use titanium over gold and platinum. The density of titanium is much lighter, and it allows sound waves to resonate. Titanium has the property to ensure the best possible sound diffusion. Moreover, the other components of this timepiece are created not to only to attract attention but also to provide practical functions. To vibrate like a guitar, we required drilling into the dial in order to lead the sound waves both from the upper and lower parts of the case. Also, the index are not applied as usual, which was a result of the drilling that allows the sound waves to occupy all the volume potential that eventually leads to that majestic sound.

Can you elaborate on why the hour-makers were cut out in this watch?

The indexes are also made of titanium and feature a cut-out design because these openings serve to amplify resonance inside the case and thereby optimise the sound effect. There have been many separate stages that are involved in creating the completed gongs and hammers, much as preparing and shaping the steel parts, defining the notes and the harmonics. Every single part of the 362 components housed within this extremely slim case has functions that deliver the final music.

What is the inspiration for its sandblasted colour?

The colour grey is the consequence of titanium. It is also an interesting break from the traditional white, gold and platinum colours that are common on complications. I believe that this greyish palette also added to its modern appeal and complemented quite well with ultra-modern geometrical shape of the Octo line. We also included the use of the matte-black vulcanised alligator leather strap and triple-blade titanium folding clasp to heighten its fresh and contemporary finish.

Did you purposely use titanium for the crown?

For such a thin movement, we have to make sure that the crown functions with rigidity. To be able to be more flexible in other parts of the watch, we had to choose a rigid material such as titanium for the crown, then polished it and set with a black ceramic cabochon.

Will Bvlgari continue to focus on adding and developing the Octo line?

I believe it is fair to say that yes, we develop products under the Octo range, but we also launch other pieces such as the Diagono line last years. Our strength lies greatly on our very strong, recognisable and current designs. In particular, the Serpenti attracts a number of followers as well as the Octo is being desired for its sophisticated design. The magic of Octo is in its shape that comes between a circle and a square, but more of a circle than a square really.

How does the brand get the perception of being a female brand?

In the ‘80s or ‘90s, we are perceived more as a male brand. After the success of Bulgari “Millennium”, we eventually have been perceived as a ladies’ brand. Yet we still remain to be connected a lot with men through our strong sales in watches as well as perfumes. As per the minute, we still encounter more sales in ladies’ watches but we hope the men’s watches would grow as quick as the ladies.

How do you see the growth of men’s watch category in Bvlgari?

We have been receiving great feedback to our men’s timepieces, and the successful launches keep us in innovating. When we see that the ladies’ watches are going very fast, we want to push our men’s watches and even accessory to fill the situation, otherwise we get marginalised. We produce and develop to keep a strong interest to our men’s watches despite the weight and the glory of the ladies watches.

What is your current standing in the Middle East?

The Middle East has always been an important market for us. Since our brand is into creating innovative and bold designs, we have experienced amazing success in the Middle East market which shows a great liking to strong feminine watches.

Where is Bvlgari ten years from now?

Given our past, our talents and the expertise of the people in Bvlgari, we are obviously at the top, among the prime brands of watches and jewellery. I have no doubt that we have the know-how for people to desire us, and this desire is definitely going to create attention and sales that will signify our continued success.