Watches

Bvlgari sets new world record with Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC

The Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC sets a new bar in high-end mechanical watchmaking. Never before has a mechanical watch resistant to shocks and magnetic fields been made so slim – even thinner than a coin, the benchmark now stands at 1.70 millimetres. This new Octo Finissimo Ultra from Bvlgari is not only the thinnest mechanical watch ever produced: it is also the world’s thinnest COSC chronometer. Another intriguing addition to the family is the new Octo Finissimo Ultra Platinum

Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC
Consider the significance of a 1.70 mm thickness – a ninth world record that introduces a novel standard in watchmaking. Creating the world’s thinnest mechanical watch isn’t possible by building solely on existing concepts. It requires a paradigm shift, starting anew from the ground up. This is precisely what Bvlgari accomplished with the unveiling of the Octo Finissimo Ultra and its remarkable thickness of only 1.80 mm in 2022.

Emboldened by this achievement and convinced the limits had not been reached, Bvlgari’s R&D department, in collaboration with Concepto (experts in complex mechanisms), decided to push the envelope further still. Surpassing already historic achievements is a testament to the power of innovation, determination, and the ability to question established norms.

Given that the limits of movement slimness had already been reached with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, achieving an even slimmer profile for the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC involved a rework of the case by optimising the sapphire crystal. Through patient, meticulous incremental steps, the engineers were able to shave off that critical tenth of a millimetre – and establish a new world record.

In terms of the overall structure, the case back serves as the mainplate, upon which the 170 components of the manually wound BVL180 manufacture calibre are assembled. These components are selected using 1/10-micron optical measuring systems, so as to be able to select the parts that are closest to the perfect dimension, in order to exceed the precision of production resources. This COSC-certified mechanical movement introduces another layer of complexity and marks a first for the Ultra line.

The challenge of ensuring adequate rigidity for a watch measuring 40 mm in diameter and just 1.70 mm thick was met by crafting case back/mainplate from particularly dense, hard, and ultra-resistant tungsten carbide. Moreover, to maximise the use of the watch’s surface area, the hour and minute dials, the large barrel – with a 50-hour power reserve – and the escapement cleverly play with the circular geometry of the bezel opening, adjusting it ever so slightly.

Two years ago, the Octo Finissimo Ultra, still available by special order, opened contemporary haute horlogerie to new connected worlds. The QR code on the ratchet has now been transformed into a miniaturised Datamatrix on the back; it provides all the data relating to the watch and invites you on a personal journey into the Bvlgari universe. With images and videos, it provides a better understanding of the quest for ultimate finesse, the special skills and ingenuity that went into the creation of the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC.

An exceptional watch needs an exceptional case: with the case dedicated to the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, Bvlgari reinvents the experience of setting and winding its watch. If you don’t want to use traditional methods, you can place your watch in the dedicated case, equipped with a digital display. The desired time is then programmed, and the adjustment cycle launched at the touch of a button. In a matter of seconds, the watch is perfectly adjusted and wound with impeccable precision. It’s like having a watchmaker at home. The Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC (104081), a new milestone in the history of watchmaking, is being introduced in a limited series of 20 pieces.

Octo Finissimo Ultra Platinum
The aesthetic hallmark of the Finissimo collection lies in its use of ultra-light titanium for the case, dial, and bracelet, a choice that has contributed to the line’s record-setting slimness and over 50 international awards in twelve years.

Following the first Octo Finissimo Ultra model in titanium in 2022, Bvlgari elevated the challenge by opting for platinum – a material notoriously difficult to work with due to its density and the precision required at such thin dimensions. Consequently, the new Octo Finissimo Ultra Platinum is crafted in 950 platinum with satin, polished and sand-blasted finishes for the case middle and bezel, while the back/plate element is in tungsten carbide. The bracelet is also in platinum with a satin-polished finish. The integrated clasp is made of titanium to guarantee greater reliability (tested to 5000 cycles). Last but not least, this new model, equipped with the BVL 180 manufacture calibre, is a remarkable 1.80 mm thin, a first for a platinum watch.

The Octo Finissimo Ultra Platinum (103832) is offered in a limited edition of 20 pieces.

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