High jewellery and watchmaking brand Bvlgari has unveiled its latest novelties. Tadao Ando X Bvlgari Serpenti collection comprise strikingly beautiful creations that draw on the ancient craft of marquetry while the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon editions – Manual and Automatic – epitomise the high watchmaking skills of the maison as do the Octo Roma Automatic and Chronograph editions
TADAO ANDO X BVLGARI
While Tadao Ando and Bvlgari have collaborated in the past, this is the first time around Serpenti. Just as a snake goes through its transformation, Tadao Ando’s works change with the seasons and the light. To evoke the seasons, Tadao Ando envisioned colourful marquetry – of green aventurine, Tiger’s eye, and pink or white mother-of-pearl. Two rows of diamonds set along the serpent’s head bring radiant life to this vibrant tableau.
The first of the four limited editions, to be unveiled at the summer solstice, natsu1 (夏), is of slightly translucent green aventurine stone, enriched with dusky effects, and contrasts beautifully against a yellow gold and steel case and bracelet. As autumn, aki2 (秋), approaches, the Tiger’s eye lends the iconic reptile a warm, golden glow, set entirely in rose gold and accented with a pink rubellite on the crown. With the onset of winter, fuyu3 (冬), nature’s icy beauty is symbolised by marquetry of white mother-of-pearl beautifully complemented by a gleaming steel case and bracelet. Spring, haru4 (春), heralded by Sakura – the cherry blossom trees – is encapsulated by delicate shades of pink mother-of-pearl marquetry. These new additions to the Serpenti Tubogas collection will mark the seasons through to spring 2025. Each limited edition is encased in a box specially crafted and signed by Tadao Ando, a detail echoed on the back of each watch case. Moreover, a collection of twenty exclusive boxed sets will present these four creations as an ensemble.
OCTO FINISSIMO TOURBILLON
Over the span of twelve years, Bvlgari’s Octo collection has established itself as a towering milestone on the timeline of haute horlogerie, distinguished by its technical innovations, emblematic design, and instantly recognisable monochromatic aesthetic. Sleek and contemporary, it captures the essence of Bvlgari watches, blending Swiss watchmaking precision with Italian flair. To celebrate this icon of finesse and style, Bvlgari unveils several Octo Finissimo Tourbillon models in unprecedented configurations.
Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Manual
The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Manual in rose gold captivates not only with the slimness of its movement (1.95 mm) but also with the sense of lightness it exudes. Housed in a 40 mm case alternating satin and polished finishes, the skeleton tourbillon reveals its complex mechanism: the BVL 268SK manufacture calibre. This flying tourbillon movement, enhanced with a micro-blasted grey finish, provides a power reserve of 52 hours.
Equipped with the same BVL 268SK manufacture calibre with a satin black finish – the world’s thinnest tourbillon movement – and featuring the same finishes, the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Manual in titanium features a 40 mm case with a DLC treatment. It stands out particularly for its rose gold hands and chapter ring, contrasting with the black of the case and rubber strap. A clash of materials and colours so dear to Bvlgari, reflecting a perfectly assumed audacity.
Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic
The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic is built around the automatic BVL 288 manufacture calibre (1.95 mm) in a micro-blasted blue finish. The 40 mm platinum case (4.95 mm thin) alternates between satin and polished surfaces, revealing all the wheels and gears – including the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock – that drive this ultra-complex mechanism.
Like all the creations that have preceded them in the collection, the new Octo Finissimo pieces don’t just set new standards; they redefine expectations, heralding a revolution in design and technical achievement. They are wrist-worn artworks. They epitomise dynamic, continuous, and limitless innovation.
OCTO ROMA
Bvlgari unveils two new additions to the Octo Roma collection: a three-hand model and a chronograph, both in 100% black DLC steel. With their sleek design and bold modernity, these watches introduce a multifaceted and unconventional vision to the existing Octo Roma lineup. Both pieces share the same Octo Roma DNA: a steel case with a design geometry inspired from the principles of ancient Roman architecture; two interchangeable straps; an in-house automatic movement with date that provides a 42-hour power reserve; and a screw-down crown with a ceramic insert for certified water resistance up to 100 meters.
Octo Roma Automatic Steel DLC
The automatic three-hand and date version offers a fresh take while remaining true to the original spirit of the Octo Roma. The piece maintains its 41 mm-diameter and features a sober, unencumbered dial that gives the Clous de Paris pattern, so characteristic of the Octo Roma, the space to unfold its mesmerising effect. This subtle relief design, a time-honoured hallmark of Swiss haute horlogerie, receives a surprisingly modern interpretation here, with the black DLC finish lending it a dual nature: from a distance, its black appearance is perfectly uniform; up close, however, each pyramid-shaped Clou de Paris captures light from its own unique angle, giving it a distinctive reflection. The dial comes alive, a private visual delight for its beholder.
It is at night that this dark finish shines brightest: indices and hands are filled with luminescent material, as are the collection’s two iconic hour markers – the “12” and the “6” that adorn each three-hand dial of an Octo Roma. The in-house BVL 191 movement, whose oscillating mass finished with Côtes de Genève graining can be admired through the sapphire case back, provides the Octo Roma Automatic with a 42-hour power reserve. The piece, available from July 2024, will come with two straps: textured rubber echoing the Clou de Paris pattern on the dial; and black alligator.
Octo Roma Chronograph
The Octo Roma Chronograph Steel DLC presents a different vibe. Sportier, it comes in a slightly larger case measuring 42 mm. This size gives the bicompax chronograph layout more space to stand out. The Start/Stop and Reset pushers have been carefully integrated into the case, directly extending from the lugs, to maintain the Octo Roma line’s contemporary design. Shape, function, and ergonomics merge into a cohesive and harmonious whole, arranged according to the tenets of Roman architecture.
The Octo Roma Chronograph faithfully reproduces the complication’s original design, with a small seconds at 3 o’clock, a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, and a 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock – and a large central seconds-hand. A discreet date window is positioned at 4:30. Powering this watch is Bvlgari’s in-house automatic Caliber BVL 399, which beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a 42-hour power reserve. For enhanced readability, the three counters sport a sunburst finish, while the hour-markers and hands are luminescent.
For the first time, the Octo Roma Chronograph is unveiled in a completely monochrome, sporty, sleek, and refined style. It is paired with a rubber strap with a Clous de Paris texture, mirroring the dial. Additionally, a black alligator strap, also provided, elevates the sport-chic aesthetic if and when a touch of elegance is de rigueur. The two straps are easily interchangeable thanks to the quick-release system.
