Chopard is unveiling its latest opus of the Insofu Emerald: an extraordinary fusion uniting the forces of nature, the concern for traceable and sustainable luxury, and the maison’s boundless creativity to give birth to a one-of-a-kind haute joaillerie collection that is as mesmerising as it is rich in significance
For the second time in its history, Chopard has taken the bold step of devising an haute joaillerie collection, not from a set of cut and polished gemstones, but instead from a raw stone, full of both promise and uncertainties. Such a scheme is unusual for a jeweller, but to Chopard, it represents a guarantee of traceability, and an opportunity to work in closer collaboration with those at the beginning of the supply chain.
After the Garden of Kalahari Collection – born from a 342-carat rough diamond in 2017 – the story of the Insofu Collection began in 2022 in Paris, when Caroline Scheufele, Chopard’s visionary Co-President and Artistic Director, unveiled an astonishing 6,225-carat rough emerald, unearthed in Zambia a few years prior. Awestruck, the miners named it Insofu, meaning “elephant” in the local Bemba language – a nod to its trunk-like shape and unprecedented colossal size.
Captivated in turn by its vivid colour, shifting hues, and unique character, Caroline Scheufele acquired the gem, sure it would yield stones destined to become the centrepiece of extraordinary jewels. Unlike a rough diamond, whose yield in terms of diamond types and carats can be determined by specific tools with scientific precision, a rough emerald is an even bolder undertaking, as the stone only reveals its true potential during the fraught cutting process.
Chopard brought the world’s most skilled gem-cutters from India to its Geneva workshops to meticulously study the gem and propose cuts and facets to reveal its inherent beauty, while preserving its unique soul. This proved to be a lengthy and delicate venture lasting nearly a year, given emeralds are notoriously fragile and demand the utmost expertise. Their internal inclusions, known as “jardin,” require careful handling: cutting too close to them may create fractures that can spread across the gem. Moreover, it is essential to ensure the inclusions’ position does not overshadow the stone’s brilliance. Ultimately, the Insofu gem yielded 850 carats of breathtaking emeralds, each a testament to the artisans’ unparalleled skill and dedication.
The first chapter of the Insofu Collection debuted last year during Oscars week, with the release of a parure composed of a necklace, a pair of earrings and a ring. This capsule collection paired emeralds from Insofu with juicy-red rubellites and touches of sky blue turquoise, offering a glimpse into Chopard’s bold creative vision for this exceptional stone.
This year, Chopard unveils a new chapter with an haute joaillerie collection of 15 exquisite pieces – five pairs of earrings, four necklaces, three rings, a bracelet and a jewellery watch. Each jewel reflects a different facet of the Insofu Emerald’s character, drawing influences from the organic and fluid lines of nature, abstract forms, and the rigorous elegance of Art Deco. Their unifying element lies in the embodiment of the joie de vivre so vividly portrayed by Francis Scott Fitzgerald in “The Great Gatsby”.
One gem, a multitude of jewels
At the heart of the collection is an elephant-shaped pendant – a tribute to the name Insofu. This signature piece features emeralds of various shapes and sizes, framed by shimmering diamonds that form the elephant’s tusks. It is suspended from a long chain interspersed with emeralds and diamonds. Notably, the elephant’s trunk is raised upward – a gesture replete with symbolism, representing prosperity and good fortune.
The collection also includes elegant Art Deco-inspired chokers, flowing long necklaces almost grazing the waist, evoking the audacity of the Roaring Twenties, a statement cuff, imposing cocktail rings, and showstopping earrings.
Traceability: a sustainable achievement
Convinced that ethics and aesthetics must coexist, Chopard pioneered the use of the Provenance Proof’s Emerald Paternity Test developed by Gübelin Gem Lab. This cutting-edge method involves injecting DNA-based nanoparticles into the gem’s natural fissures that remain intact through cutting and polishing. This marking is permanent, allowing the rough stone to be identified for life. Even decades from now, a simple examination will trace the jewels to their original rough gem, safeguarding an intact link to their exact origin. This innovative technology further elevates Chopard’s sustainability standards, most notably as the Maison has used 100% ethical gold in all its jewellery and watches since July 2018.
Supporting community and conservation projects
Gemfields, the mining company that unearthed Insofu in the Kagem mine in Zambia, has long participated in the development of the communities where its mines operate and championed wildlife conservation projects. At the Kagem Mine, Gemfields funds projects that benefit education, healthcare, and livelihoods, as well as initiatives to protect Zambia’s flora and fauna. Chopard’s collaboration with Gemfields ensures that the Insofu Collection contributes to these meaningful initiatives, aligning with the Maison’s dedication positively impacting society.
Elephant Family: a meaningful collaboration
Caroline Scheufele’s decision to unveil this collection in collaboration with the charity Elephant Family is much more than an obvious reference to the name of the gem – (Insofu meaning ‘elephant’). Linking the discovery of this natural marvel with a meaningful cause further underscores Chopard’s genuine dedication to sustainable luxury, as well as Caroline Scheufele’s long-standing passion for nature and endangered animals. The charitable dimension imbues this collection with profound meaning, perfectly complementing the maison’s pioneering spirit in innovation, creativity, and the pursuit of sustainable luxury. Part of the profits from each piece sold in the collection will be donated to support Elephant Family and its actions.
Chopard’s pioneering spirit
Purchasing rough stones is a rarity for jewellery maisons, yet Chopard demonstrates its pioneering spirit with the acquisition of this remarkable gem, which also incorporates the most advanced technology in traceability – a testament to Chopard’s enduring passion for exceptional gemstones and openness to the future.
