Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD reveals first exceptional model
In conjunction with the Chopard Group’s revival of the illustrious name of Ferdinand Berthoud, Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD presents this year the FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 Chronometer, an exclusive timepiece inspired by the remarkable marine clocks developed by the renowned chronometer-maker and Maison founder
Known for his outstanding contributions in the world of horology, especially in the field of marine chronometers, the Swiss watchmaker Ferdinand Berthoud has left behind brilliant heritage which the Chopard Group has wished to revive. A visionary watchmaker, daring researcher and acknowledged theoretician, he earned the title of “Master Horologist” in Paris in 1753, at the age of 26, and was to make an indelible imprint on history through his inventiveness and his talent for mechanics. His ultra-precise marine chronometers made it possible to calculate longitude to the nearest half-degree and to conduct the great scientific explorations and cartography campaigns of the 18th century. These horological feats earned him the much-envied title of Clockmaker and Mechanic by appointment to the French King and the French Navy under Louis XV.
In initiating the rebirth of his iconic name, the Chopard Group established the Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD in Fleurier, in the Val-de-Travers region of Canton Neuchâtel in Switzerland in 2006. This year, the Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD released its inaugural timepiece that embodies the contemporary expression of the signature touches Berthoud has been renowned for.
The exceptional piece aptly called the FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 Chronometer is inspired by Berthoud’s heritage in pure, uncluttered design and extreme precision of the marine clocks particularly theMarine Clock M.M. No. 6, dated 1777, and kept at the L.U.CEUM, a museum in Chopard’s Manufacture in Fleurier. Modernising Berthoud’s heritage has been quite a feat but following Berthoud’s fundamental qualities of reliability and chronometric precision guided the development of a remarkable movement that is equipped with a constant-force device, a fusée and chain transmission and a remarkable pillar-type construction.
Powered by an original mechanical hand-wound movement comprising more than 1,120 components, the FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 Chronometer’s Calibre FB-T.FC is entirely developed, produced and assembled by Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUND. Calibre FB-T.FC is armed with a remarkable low-frequency (3 Hz) tourbillon featuring a direct-drive seconds display and a constant-force regulating device with suspended fusée and chain transmission, enabling it to take up an unusually small place within the movement. The fusée is equipped with a differential-winding system as well as a unique “suspended mobile cone” power-reserve mechanism. Moreover, the movement boasts its balance spring with hand-shaped Philips terminal curve, and its nickel silver half-bridges supported by stylised titanium pillars.
The result of almost three years’ research and development, culminating in cutting-edge reliability tests, the massive Calibre FB-T.FC, in 35.5 mm diameter with 46 jewels, delivers exceptional precision and rating regularity duly certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), along with 53 hours’ autonomy and optimal readability of its hours, minutes, seconds and power-reserve functions. A patent has been filed for its unprecedented mechanisms.
Meanwhile, the 18-carat gold 44 mm case of the FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 Chronometer is octagonal-shaped and inspired by the structure of the marine chronometers developed by the Swiss master watchmaker. Its sides open onto four watertight portholes revealing the subtle workings of the movement, while the transparent screw-in case-back with glareproofed sapphire crystal affords a fascinating view of the tourbillon as well as the suspended fusée and chain. A domed and arched sapphire crystal enables optimal readability of the dial indications, while the inter-horn space clothed in titanium for the white gold case and black ceramic for the rose gold case is secured by bolts similar to those used by Ferdinand Berthoud for his marine clocks. It flaunts a crown that comes in 18-carat white gold with 18-carat rose gold medallion, and a water resistance up to 30 metres.
Focusing firmly on time read-off and its precise measurement, the vertical satin-finish ruthenium dial of the FERDINAND BERTHOUDFB 1 Chronometer displays the 18-carat blued gold hours, minutes and power reserve hands in a resolutely understated manner. The off-set hours and minutes tick at 12 o’clock on a white lacquered dial. A translucent sapphire inner bezel ring bears the blued bronze seconds scale. The cut-out dial centre reveals two large wheels turning in opposite directions. Meanwhile, the movement power reserve is indicated in a counter engraved on the main plate in an openworked subdial at 9 o’clock, and the tourbillon at 6 o’clock.
The hands of the FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 Chronometer call for particularly complex execution. The dagger-shaped gold hands are cut-out and facetted. Designed to match the shade of the dial, they ensure the perfect readability of the functions.
Setting the perfect finishing touch to the understated lines and contemporary refinement of the FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 Chronometer, the hand-sewn rolled-edge alligator leather strap is secured by an 18-carat white gold double-blade length-adjustable safety folding clasp.
Promising to release only limited-edition pieces, the Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD makes the FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 Chronometer available in a 50-piece limited and numbered edition.
