H. Moser & Cie. reinvents the pocket watch in the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition
The renowned Swiss watch company H. Moser & Cie. crafted an exceptional artisan timepiece to pay tribute to the 10th anniversary of its perpetual calendar. Unveiled at the prestigious Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) 2016, the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition is an acknowledgment to the tradition and modernity in watchmaking
Known for its expertise in creating watches that link the past and present of horology, H. Moser & Cie has once again proven its ability to produce an exceptional timepiece that follows such exercise. Its new Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition takes inspiration from the H. Moser pocket watch dating from the late 19th century in the H. Moser & Cie. collection. The watchmakers at the Schaffhausen-based Manufacture found the case – made from striking blue, engraved enamel and studded with diamonds – more than inspiring to reinterpret the watch.
The new Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition is the synthesis of the greatest arts in watchmaking craftsmanship. Now in a larger dimension and fitted with a strap, the watch is a reinterpretation of an historic watch that retains its original features: It is an astounding symbol that acts as the link between the past and the present for H. Moser & Cie.
Featuring the “cloisonné” enamel on a massive 46mm case with two covers, guilloché, engraving and setting techniques, this timepiece also flaunts the “Grand Feu” enamel on the dial, in association with a modern in-house, hand-wound calibre made from solid gold. The red gold case with two covers has therefore been enlarged and features extremely fine lugs, while respecting its original design. On either side of the watch is a cover with hand-engraved, guilloché decoration, extending up the side of the case. These have then been enamelled, demonstrating the highest level of craftsmanship, and set with diamonds on the dial side.
Paired with a hand-stitched crocodile leather strap and 18-carat solid 5N red gold folding clasp with Moser logo, this beautifully rounded case is as smooth as a pebble. In reference to the historic timepiece, H. Moser & Cie. fitted its Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition with a notched crown equipped with the Double Pull Crown system and fitted with a push-button mechanism for opening the upper case cover.
The dial, also enamelled, is decorated with Roman numerals. The scales of the track showing minutes and small seconds are a further reference to tradition, as is the dovetail shape of the two main hands, which are flame-blued, as well as those for the power reserve and small seconds. The third central hand, which is black, shows the months of the year using the twelve indices, like the famous Endeavour Perpetual Calendar. The month is indicated with a small arrow-shaped centre hand while a large window at 3 o’clock shows the date that is displayed using two discs.
Aside from its basic function as a complication, the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition shows off its centre-hand month indicator with 12-hour indices, leap year indicator, adjustment push-button and double pull crown mechanism. Its offset seconds dial with hacking seconds function at 6 o’clock while the power reserve indicator is at 9 o’clock.
The beating heart of this exceptional timepiece is the high-performance HMC 341 calibre. Made from 18-carat solid gold, this mechanical hand-wound in movement is set with two diamond end-stones. With a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour and 28 jewels and screwed gold mounts, this calibre guarantees the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition a minimum 7-day power reserve, thanks to its double barrel. Representing the culmination of nearly 200 years of history, the in-house HMC 341 calibre can be adjusted forwards or backwards at any time of day via the crown.
Boasting a solid 18-carat gold plate and bridges with a matte finish with hand chamfering and hand-engraved hallmark, the movement also features true bevel wheels and Moser tooth system for all wheels and pinions as well as interchangeable Moser escapement, Original Straumann Double Hairspring®, two genuine, functional diamond end-stones in the incabloc shock-absorber, traditional screw balance wheel with gold weight screws, pallet fork and escapement wheel made of solid gold.
Such marvel of Haute Horlogerie anchors the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition firmly in the present, making it a timepiece that is unmistakably of its time.
