Horological wonders from Arnold & Son
A well-known name in the world of haute horlogerie for centuries, the maison of Arnold & Son enjoys a legacy that goes back to 1764, when the original Arnold of Arnold & Son established his watchmaking workshop. The marque’s offerings for this year hark back to its origins with some of its creations drawing on the brand’s iconic masterpieces
John Arnold, back in England after honing his watchmaking skills in Netherlands, was able to use his horological skills and mastery of German to establish himself at the court of George III, and as a watchmaker of repute in London's Strand by his mid-twenties.
Famed for presenting the smallest repeating watch ever made to King George III and to the court, Arnold was one of the most inventive watchmakers of his day and held patents for a detent escapement, bimetallic balance and helical balance spring. A famous horologist of his day, Arnold’s timepieces accompanied famous explorers on their voyages of discovery and helped the East India Company establish its empire.
Tourbillon Chronometer No. 36
Drawing on the John Arnold Chronometer No. 1/36 (or the “Arnold 36”), which will mark its 240th anniversary in 2018, the Tourbillon Chronometer No. 36 is a marvel of symmetry and skeletonisation. The first pocket watch by John Arnold to use a larger movement with his “T” balance, the Arnold 36 was also the first to be referred to as a “chronometer” for its superior timekeeping capabilities. The Tourbillon Chronometer No. 36 is a faithful, contemporary horological homage, with the main pivoting elements such as the wheels, barrels, and the tourbillon, each mounted on their own bridge. The 13 triangular, multilevel bridges are mostly skeletonised, providing a three-dimensional aspect.
Held by a skeletonised and mirror-polished top bridge, the one-minute tourbillon features a typical Arnold & Son three-spoke design. Weighing mere fractions of a gram, the tourbillon cage consists of 58 components. Prominently positioned on the dial side, the tourbillon can also be viewed from the back, with a similar view below the small seconds display. The watch is a COSC-certified chronometer; a rare achievement for a tourbillon-equipped timepiece. In keeping with the brand’s zeitgeist, the decorative arts are lavishly demonstrated in the piece, which is available in red gold and stainless steel, limited to 28 examples in each version.
DBG Skeleton
The DBG Skeleton is a new rendition of Arnold & Son’s unique DBG dual-time (GMT) timepiece. An acronym for “double balance” and “GMT”, the DBG Skeleton references the chronometers built by John Arnold and his son. With a new skeletonised execution, the timepiece showcases the brand’s newly developed manufacture A&S1309 calibre – conceived, designed, and manufactured entirely in-house. The watch features two separate time displays, each driven by its own barrel and gear train with its own escapement and balance, now entirely visible.
This permits the two displays, including the minute hand, to be set independently of each other. It means that the display can be set to show the precise time in zones that differ from Greenwich Mean Time by a fraction of an hour, such as a quarter or a half. A subdial at 12 o’clock shows the equation of the two time zones on a 24-hour basis and to ascertain whether it is day or night in the second zone. Both time zones share a common permanent seconds in the shape of the long slender hand emanating from the centre of the dial. The time in each of the two time zones can be set using its own crown. The DBG Skeleton is a Limited Edition of 30 timepieces.
DSTB
The DSTB (Dial Side True Beat), part of the Instrument Collection, features an in-house mechanical movement. The true beat seconds is a traditional complication of Arnold & Son, and this timepiece pays tribute to the watches produced by John Arnold and his son when they created marine chronometers – which solved the problem of determining longitude at sea – in quantity at reasonable prices. The newly designed automatic movement showcases the true beat seconds' mechanism entirely on the dial side. Not just the hands, but also the lever, wheels, and three palladium-treated true beat seconds bridges are located in all their beauty on the dial side. Making the watch even more alluring is the fact that the true beat seconds lever is shaped like an anchor – paying homage to Arnold’s maritime achievements.
The true beat seconds are superbly indicated via a large sapphire dial that occupies the top left portion of the dial at 11 o’clock. At the 4 o’clock position, a domed and white lacquered subdial indicates the hours and the minutes via blued hands – all translating into a stunning three-dimensional dial. The palladium-treated movement features Haute Horlogerie finishing with hand-chamfered and satin-finished lever and bridges, polished edges and fine circular graining, and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes.
HM Falcon
The Métiers d’Art HM Falcon Unique Piece from Arnold & Son will appeal to watch connoisseurs who appreciate the finest-quality watchmaking combined with beautiful arts and crafts. The hand-painted miniature depicts a Falcon proudly perched atop a rock against the clear sky. The subtle, soft colours are set off to perfection by the shimmer of the dial in white mother-of-pearl. The HM Falcon boasts the ultra-thin A&S1001 manufacture movement with over 90 hours of power reserve; the movement is housed in an 18-karat rose gold case, with a brown alligator strap. The Métiers d’Art HM Falcon is limited to just one example. If desired, the watch is available with a diamond-set bezel.
