Innovative Freaks from Ulysse Nardin
Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of haute horlogerie brand Ulysse Nardin, sits down with “Day & Night” magazine to discuss the Diver and Freak lines, what they mean to the maison, and the other important collections of the marque…
How has the feedback been for the Ulysse Nardin Diver Deep Dive Hammerhead Shark, which you launched at SIHH this year?
The best feedback we got was Fred Buyle’s. Fred, free diver and photographer, is always on remote locations where the equipment he uses needs to be strong and reliable, as there is no way to repair or change it when he is on a boat several days away from shore. An extremely good mechanical watch like the Ulysse Nardin Diver Deep helps Fred by giving him peace of mind about timekeeping during his dives and work. In addition, of course, the watch is easy to read underwater and well balanced on the wrist, and a sturdy workhorse with a true manufacture movement in it. Fred told me “At the beginning I must say I was looking at my Diver Deep Dive a bit too much and missed a few pictures of sharks passing by.”
What exactly does your partnership with Fred Buyle mean to both of you?
Our recent alliance with Fred Buyle contributes to raise awareness through ocean explorations. We strongly support Fred, free diver and underwater photographer, in his explorations in the watery depths. Divers and watchmakers have always been connected as it is vital for divers to measure time accurately. Free diving is the most ancient and traditional way of exploring the underwater world and Ulysse Nardin is a traditional but also innovative manufacture; the partnership was easy to define. It extends the path of Ulysse Nardin’s marine heritage, which was so far, mainly above the seas, to the other side of the surface. The Kering group promotes sustainable industry practices and to Ulysse Nardin, the watchmaker of the seas, this means we are very concerned about conservations issues. Collaborating with Fred was a natural choice, as he is invested in ocean preservation and shark conservation. Sharks, at the apex of the food chain, are key to the maintenance of the equilibrium of marine life and hence to the environment of the entire planet.
Can you tell us about your flagship Freak collection, especially Freak Vision and Freak Out editions?
Over the past two decades, Ulysse Nardin has worked diligently to create engineering masterpieces while pushing the boundaries of traditional watchmaking. Freak has always been considered as the “laboratory on the wrist” – the collection dedicated primarily to showcase the numerous brand innovations. Our current collection has all our latest innovations because we believe in their advantages for the customer. The Freak universe is widening and in mid-April, we launched a stunning new collection of four Titanium “Freak Out” timepieces with a retail price of CHF48,000; a real revolution for a reasonable price – no crown, no dial, no hands and the time indicated thanks to the baguette movement. You can expect more in the future.
How important would you consider the Freak family to Ulysse Nardin?
The Freak was a watch that broke every convention in watchmaking history. A memorable timepiece, a world-first, it was the very first wristwatch to use silicon components. Ulysse Nardin led the search for perfect materials and advanced geometry to aid in cutting lubrication and improving watch efficiency. You can expect the more surprises in the Freak collection – the craziest inventions and strong aesthetic codes. It stands out from other watches, and was instrumental in building our reputation with connoisseurs. Freak is our hero, our pillar.
How do you come up with ideas for the Jaquemart repeaters, which make your minute repeaters not only sound good but also look good?
The secret is in the creation process itself. At Ulysse Nardin, the engraver participates in the definition of the product with the design team. In many cases, the design is submitted by the engraver himself. As all of automatons or dials (in enamel or in precious stones) are handmade, we consider them not only as crafted pieces but as real pieces of art.
Is the current trend for Dive watches in Ulysse Nardin a reflection of your passion for free diving? Can we expect more in the future?
Ulysse Nardin has a tradition of excellence in diver watches since 1964, when the first pieces were sold to the professionals working mainly for the military or off-shore petroleum businesses. As a free diving enthusiast and because the sea is the brand’s natural playground since our origins, I plan to strengthen and amplify our products in that segment. We will bring out many strong novelties in this field soon.
Where and how do you plan to take the brand forward?
As a team, we have been fortunate over the past months – from the award we won in Fall 2017 at the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie in Geneva to the very successful launch of the pre-SIHH novelties – which was all sold-out – to a fantastic SIHH in January 2018. Our products, especially the Freak Vision, have been acclaimed by the press and the public. I guess that vibe, which is now continuing with the launch of the new advertising campaign, is a great sign.
How did your TAG Heuer stint help you with the Apple Watch and how is your time with Apple impacting you here?
My Apple experience sometimes helps me step back from a pure watchmaker perspective and helps facilitate, with the rest of the teams, a fresh view on things. For instance, when I joined Apple before the launch of the Apple Watch, I was told “We’re going to make a personal object and, by the way, it is going to be worn on the wrist so we may call it a watch”. Apple taught me that you actually could do what you wanted to with any product; I have a much broader view now. This spirit also exists at Ulysse Nardin, albeit in a different manner. This way of thinking is the trademark of brands that are true innovators, and Ulysse Nardin has historically been one of them. That’s why I am glad and honoured to lead this brand.
Is the Year of the Dog watch limited to your Chinese market or do you expect demand from other regions?
The Ulysse Nardin Chinese Calendar collection, with its yearly edition in enamel, is of course inspired and mainly dedicated to our Asian clients. That said, we also have a few collectors from other countries.
How has the market reacted to the five-year guarantee that you are offering now?
Ulysse Nardin has always been seen as a pioneer, continuously pushing the limits in haute horlogerie. This warranty extension to 5 years has been received as a sign of trust and self-confidence in both the quality of our watches and calibres. We are also offering a 10-year warranty to our Silicium components, which we use for the most sensitive part of the movement, the escapement, offering more value to our clients.
Does this impact your operational costs in any way?
There is an impact of course, but it is negligible as we are protected by our superior quality standards and requirements. We have our own Certification Process and 100% of our timepieces pass a very strict series of tests and verifications before delivery.
Your Musical watches – Stranger and Vivaldi – were talking pieces when they were launched a few years ago; do you plan to bring out more editions in the future?
Generally speaking, chiming timepieces are part of our tradition and exclusive know-how. Starting from the Sonata – the only alarm mechanical watch with a Cathedral gong – we have the Minute Repeaters or the Hourstrikers in addition to the Musical Watches. We want to maintain the exclusivity of this know-how. In addition to the Stranger and the Vivaldi, we are developing some specific melodies for Regional Limited Editions. Our clients appreciate the level of customisation we offer, even if this has a cost.
Ulysse Nardin has a history of breaking horological boundaries with watches such as the Freak, Musical watch, and the Grand Deck Marine Tourbillon; will this innovative trend continue?
Yes, more than ever. We are coming to the next SIHH with very strong and disruptive concepts. Some of these will be released this autumn. We plan to innovate more in the coming years.
