Highly respected in the world of haute horlogerie, Louis Moinet is a brand that constantly stuns and amazes with its offerings, most of which are creations that combine high complications with métiers d’art and extraordinary materials. We got a chance to speak to Jean-Marie Schaller, founder and creative director of the brand, about its incredibly beautiful timepieces
The Savanna Tourbillon collection was a massive success when it was released. Will there be another collection based on miniature puzzle dials in the future?
At Louis Moinet, we are always exploring new ways to express the art of watchmaking, and the Savanna Tourbillon unique pieces were a perfect example. These creations introduced the innovative miniature jigsaw puzzle dial, a technique where 81 interlocking pieces are carefully arranged across four levels and individually hand-painted. This meticulous craftsmanship truly pushed the boundaries of métiers d’art.
We also incorporated this artistic craft into bespoke creations, as well as in one of our Around The World In 8 Days creation – the Paris timepiece. For this model, we designed a single-level puzzle dial featuring a miniature map of the city, placed beneath a hand-sculpted Eiffel Tower crafted from an authentic fragment of the landmark.
While we have no immediate plans to launch another model using this artistic technique, it remains a cherished part of our creative repertoire. Who knows? Perhaps it will inspire a future timepiece. For now, though, we’re fully focused on bringing other exciting projects to life.
Around the World in 8 Days collection surprised everyone when it was shown in Watches and Wonders; how long did it take to create this collection?
The Around The World In 8 Days was indeed a surprising and ambitious project, but its creation was a long journey. The concept itself is deeply personal, born from my many travels. Over the years, I kept this idea in mind, taking notes during my trips to capture the emotions of the places I visited –their energy, beauty, and unique character.
On the creative side, it involved numerous inspiring exchanges with artisans to find innovative ways to represent each location. We aimed to combine métiers d’art, high-tech materials, and fragments of history to give every timepiece a distinct identity. It took nearly a year to define the concept and solutions for each city. The production process itself took over another year, as each piece required meticulous attention to detail and collaboration with highly skilled craftspeople. In total, I would say it took almost three years to bring this collection to life – a true labour of love and passion.
What was the criteria when selecting the cities in the collection?
Around The World In 8 Days is a modern and reimagined echo of Jules Verne’s odyssey through 8 cities and timepieces. Yet, there are countless other places I would love to revisit and hope to bring into future creations someday. The final selection was deeply personal, guided by the emotional and cultural impact these cities had on me during my travels.
Why use different metiers d’art and materials for each watch considering the difficulty and time taken to create each watch?
To illustrate the cultural, artistic, historical, and innovative richness of each location, it was essential to combine métiers d’art and extraordinary materials. Each city has its own story, and using different techniques and materials allowed us to capture its unique essence in a truly authentic way. Yes, it’s a complex and meticulous process, but the result is worth it – a true tribute to the diversity and richness of the places we celebrated
During SIAR, Louis Moinet announced the Fuego Nuevo piece unique watch; can you tell us more about the watch?
The Fuego Nuevo is a unique timepiece inspired by the Aztec ritual of the New Fire, which celebrated the sun’s rebirth and the renewal of time cycles. Its dial is crafted from the Muonionalusta meteorite, one of the oldest meteorites ever found, and is intricately laser-engraved to depict the Aztec Sun Stone. To bring such an ancient material to life, we used today’s cutting-edge technologies, combining history and innovation in a striking way.
Fuego Nuevo is equipped with a flying tourbillon and a double barrel, arranged in a volte-face system, offering a power reserve of 96 hours. All of this is housed in a 40mm red-gold case with fluid lines and a sapphire dome showcasing the intricate details of the dial.
The dial of the watch is made of the Muonionalusta, one the oldest meteorites found on earth; how did Louis Moinet manage to secure the meteorite?
Over the years, I’ve built a network of professionals, including meteorite hunters, who have become close friends. They often share their discoveries with me first, and that’s how I was able to acquire the Muonionalusta meteorite. It’s fascinating – imagine, this fragment is 4.5 billion years old! What a privilege to transform it into a timepiece that honours both history and art.
A thin layer of the meteorite was laser cut to create the details of the dial; how did Louis Moinet manage to do that without breaking the dial?
To create this intricate decoration on such an ancient and rare meteorite, we had to rely on today’s advanced laser technology. Using ultra-precise femtosecond laser engraving, we reproduced the intricate details of the Aztec Sun Stone at two depths – 0.2mm and 0.1mm – while preserving the delicate structure of the 0.5mm meteorite disc. It’s a perfect example of how modern technology can complement the artistry of watchmaking.
