Louis Moinet celebrates the chronograph in “Memorisâ€
Independent Swiss watchmaking company Louis Moinet dedicates first in a series of commemorative pieces to celebrate the 200th year anniversary of the invention of chronograph. The limited edition “Memoris” flaunts a new hour dial made in enamel, a new mainplate painted and decorated with star constellations, and a new translucent flange and counter bridge
It was in 1816 when Louis Moinet unveiled the chronograph – an artistic and technological masterpiece beating at a rhythm of 216,000 vibrations per hour, designed to observe the orbits of the planets in the heavens. Two hundred years after, the independent Atelier reinvents the chronograph and crafts the “Memoris 200th Anniversary” which is another addition to its great history in watchmaking.
In creating the limited edition commemorative timepiece, Louis Moinet worked on a starry dial through the art of watchmaking known as the ‘guillochage’. The starry back consists of a brass plate coated in a translucent blue. The stars have been created using an entirely new fixed graver process. Devised by one of Louis Moinet’s craftsmen, this involves attaching a specially-made lathe to a traditional rose engine (also known as a guillocheuse).
The idea is to combine the power of the rose engine with the precision of a handheld graver. The result differs from that produced by milling or stamping: while it resembles the effect traditionally associated with a guillocheuse in as much as material is removed, here this is focused on a tiny area with varying levels of depth – two characteristics that traditional engine turning seeks to avoid at all costs.
What is more, individual stars are all fashioned to feature different angles and depths, so that each and every one captures as much light as possible. Several fixed graver sessions are required per star. The process used is unprecedented in watchmaking – and the outstanding result gives the novel impression that certain stars really are shining.
Meanwhile, for the flange and counter bridge, Ateliers Louis Moinet used a revolutionary translucent material. Its precise makeup, produced by combining a number of composite materials and high-temperature vacuum moulding, is a closely-guarded secret. It offers a unique advantage that has won over Ateliers Louis Moinet: it is through-coloured – and yet the same time maintains a certain degree of transparency.
Using it in translucent dark blue on the flange of the new Memoris adds an exclusive sense of depth, whereas an opaque flange would have ‘locked down’ the timepiece. In its natural state, this material is as just as pure and translucent as crystal, but nowhere near as fragile, allowing it to be used for the counter bridge, too.
Other than these remarkable processes that entailed the crafting of the “Memoris,” the timepiece presents the chronograph mechanism visible on dial with the 60-second chronograph at central hand and the 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock. The watch also displays a rounded enamel dial with diamond cut bead, while the hour and minute feature the “Gouttes de Rosée”® dew-drop hands that are blue-tinted with luminous coating.
The power of the timepiece comes from the 302-component LM54 caliber, designed and manufactured by Louis Moinet. It is automatic, bi-directional winding movement that beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour, and has 48 hours power reserve. The calibre presents decorations such as Côtes de Genève, diamond-polished facets, diamond-cut chamfers and circular gears with 5N colour finish and straight-line steel.
Moreover, the “Memoris” also employs the ‘Energie Plus’ pawl winding system that comprises a baseplate and two jewelled pawls. It also has the ‘crab claw’ spring mechanism that allows an efficient winding system to reserve its power. The watch is also made of automatic wolf-teeth gear and an oscillating weight made of dual material, with concentric “Clous de Paris” and “Fleur-de-lis” pattern.
The 46 mm timepiece is cased in an original Louis Moinet® composed of 52 pieces, designed with two-part bezel and 6 screws, and assembled at a 17° angle. With two convex sapphire crystals with non-reflective coating on both faces, it also displays a caseback that is fitted with 7 screws, engraved with individual number and Louis Moinet symbols. Its water resistance is up to 50 metres.
“Memoris” finished off its remarkable features with hand-sewn Louisiana alligator leather with alligator lining as well as 18 carat gold folding clasp with “Fleur-de-lis” motif, two-strand, black DLC-treated steel. The twenty-piece limited edition, in 18 carat white gold, would be boxed and delivered with a Louis Moinet book.
