Moons and opals from Louis Moinet
It was in 2012 that Jean-Marie Schaller, at an auction, discovered and acquired Louis Moinet’s famous “compteur de tierces”. This instrument, identified as the world’s first chronograph, was introduced to the general public on March 21, 2013, when Louis Moinet was officially awarded the prestigious title of “First Chronograph” by the Guinness World Records organisation. Ever since, Les Ateliers Louis Moinet has been offering astounding haute horlogerie pieces. The maison’s stunning offerings this year include Black Moon, Moon Tech, and Geopolis Opal
BLACK MOON
The Black Moon, which comes in a limited edition of 60 pieces, features a novel display of the lunar cycle. Two lunar meteorites – Dhofar 457 lunar meteorite for the full moon, and the Gadamis 005 for the new moon – are placed on a domed central disc: a first in watchmaking. An index at 3 o’clock, framed in red, points to the current phase. The timepiece announces the full moon when the fragment circled in red is aligned with the indicator. This complex device, made up of a gear train including a 135-tooth wheel, provides excellent precision. Unlike conventional moon phase displays, the Black Moon’s is especially precise, with a deviation of just one day in 122 years. The exclusive, self-winding calibre inside was designed by Louis Moinet, independent watchmaker, and developed in collaboration with Concepto, a partner of many years.
MOON TECH
In the Moon Tech, a limited edition of eleven, the full moon and the new moon are represented by two lunar meteorites – Dhofar 457 and Gadamis 005 – placed on a domed central disc. It is read off via the index at 3 o’clock, enhanced by an authentic fragment of Kapton leaf, which was used for the thermal protection of the astronauts in the Columbia command module of the Apollo 11 mission, when man first set foot on the moon. This special material made it from Earth to the Moon and back, thus travelling thousands of kilometres through space. It was recuperated after the splashdown and is a unique collector’s item. The timepiece indicates the full moon when the meteorite surrounded by a golden circle aligns with this indicator.
GEOPOLIS OPAL
Ten opals delicately encrusted on small bases stand out against the intense black of the onyx dial to form a spellbinding rainbow on a 40-mm red gold case. A larger opal disc takes pride of place in the centre. The twelfth gem nestles at the back of the tourbillon cage, under the beating heart of the regulating mechanism. Each opal has been carefully cut and polished by hand and reduced to discs just 0.5 mm thick by renowned gem cutter and Jean-Marie Schaller’s friend Daniel Haas. The watch features an off-centre tourbillon in the subdial at 6 o’clock. The movement is hand-wound, with two barrel springs, providing an impressive ninety-six hours of power reserve. The highly technical sapphire crystal dome reveals the many fascinating facets of the opals below. The open-worked lugs perfectly underline the integration of the bracelet.
