Officine Panerai soars sky-high in Kuwait

The Special Edition of the Luminor 1950 Sealand 3 Days Automatic Acciaio for Kuwait portrays the falcon, the national bird of Kuwait. Milvin George, Managing Director of Officine Panerai in the Middle East, speaks of how the brand came to pay tribute to long-term partner Ali Morad Behbehani and the land of Kuwait

The world of haute horlogerie – innately mechanical – and the world of nature should, logically, be totally distinct. But watch brands have, historically, drawn inspiration from the wonders of nature; one good example which comes to mind is the famed cuckoo clock. Officine Panerai has once again been inspired by nature to pay tribute to its long-term partner Ali Morad Behbehani with a Special Edition of the Luminor 1950 Sealand 3 Days Automatic Acciaio – 44mm watch, sold exclusively at the Panerai boutique in Kuwait at Al Hamra Luxury Center.

Luminor 1950 Sealand
The new Luminor 1950 Sealand (PAM00851) is personalised with a beautifully hand-engraved cover for the dial, featuring a falcon in the desert: an iconic symbol in the Arab world that symbolises perspicacity, courage, strength and immortality. Speaking of the new edition, Milvin George, Managing Director of Officine Panerai, says, “It is paying tribute to our partner, our collectors, iconising the famous falcon, which is a very strong icon for Kuwaitis – it is something that is very much related to the history of the desert, hunting, and survival.”

The falcon, which is the national bird of Kuwait was chosen as, “[Falconry] is a very popular hobby among the elite, who appreciate falcons. The falcon owned by a friend of the brand served as a model for the engraving. He owns several falcons; the prices of some falcons can go up to half-a-million KD. It is a unique project; in the past, we have done the Arabian horse and this is also linked very much to the history and culture of the region.

“The Kuwait Special Edition is limited to 35 pieces. It takes the engraver three to four weeks to engrave each watch. It has a golden calf strap, with a circular buckle and a three-day power indicator on the back case. This is a P.9000 movement – the first time we have used an in-house movement in the Sealand. We have the hour, minute complication, with a small second hand and the date. The back case houses the power reserve indicator,” explains George.

Special editions and engravings
Officine Panerai has time and again brought out watches with engravings. Speaking on the brand’s affinity to engraving, George explains the reasoning behind it. “We do the same for the Chinese New Year. Every year, we bring out editions with engravings of the animal for the year. We also have the Luminor Sealand for Purdey Collection. This watch is a strong link to art. There is a lot of craftsmanship – there is already a lot of craftsmanship in terms of the movement, the design of the case – but this is more visible in the engraving of this image; it is the icing on the cake and a statement.”

Novel use of materials
One of the signatures of the brand has been Panerai’s novel use of materials in watchmaking. These include the usage of bronze and ceramic as dials or cases. Obviously, there is a lot of investment, in terms of time and R&D, before these make it to the floor of the manufacture. The brand plans to launch more novelties at SIHH next year, “but it is a long process,” elaborates George. “We always plan for five to ten years, so that we are ahead of other brands.

“Every year,” he continues, “our R&D team works to introduce new movements, or a new case, or new materials and we always have the responsibility to make sure that they are tested. In terms of the material, we have to know how it will react in different environments. That is why it takes years for us to come to market with new materials.

“We launched the Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech last year; in 2013, we brought out the Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Power Reserve Automatic Bronzo. Other brands launched watches in bronze long before us, but it was not perceived as successful as the Panerai in the market. So, we have the obligation and the pressure from all angles, when we introduce a new material.

“Panerai is not a follower of fashion; for us, it is more about movements, technology and enhancing the functionality of our watches, constant upgrading and improvement of our in-house movements and replacing the other movements we have, which are pretty much independent by now. It is the idea of exploring new material, the Carbotech, which is very different from the carbon used by others. Some have brought out forged carbon, which is a layer; but for us, Carbotech consists of several layers. So, if you cut the case in half, you can see the different layers of Carbotech.”

After-sales servicing
One niggling worry for watch enthusiasts is the question of whether they will be able to get their collectibles serviced or repaired after a few decades. This question becomes even more urgent in view of watch brands bringing out highly exclusive editions. Addressing this concern, George urges clients to rest unconcerned. “This would not be difficult, because we have the expertise and the know-how. We have state-of-the-art technology and the newly set up Manufacture, with impressive facilities. We have our Restoration department and other departments that specialise in vintage watches, with components slightly different from the current collections. It is slightly difficult, but we feel that we owe it to collectors and our heritage; if we let it go, a part of our history will die.”

Brand independence
Watchmaking involves a number of disparate skills, which together make up the whole product. Officine Panerai has over time consolidated the entire process. “Our Manufacture, which is in Neuchâtel, has approximately 300 employees. As of now, we are pretty much independent; today, more than 90 percent of our watches have in-house movements. A large portion of our business worldwide is of our movements,” comments George priding himself on the brand’s independence.

Regional presence
The Officine Panerai boutique is located in the Al Hamra Mall, one of the most prestigious shopping centres in Kuwait, and offers customers and aficionados an elegant setting in which to discover and purchase from the Panerai collection, as well as the most sought-after Special Editions. The Panerai boutique is characterised by a simple and classic Italian-style ambience and, in honour of the historic association between the brand and the Italian Navy, the shapes and materials used throughout the boutique recall the world of the sea. All the elements present in the boutique take inspiration from the history of the Florentine brand, offering visitors a unique atmosphere.

“Kuwait is one of our leading markets in the GCC and the Middle East region. When we knew that the market has reached a certain level, where you have a good number of customers, collectors and watch connoisseurs, then we became partners with Ali Morad Behbehani and this is an opportunity to celebrate our partnership,” says George on the brand’s strong presence in Kuwait City and its new edition watch.