L’Armoriale pocket watch – a pièce unique – marks a new milestone within Parmigiani Fleurier’s “Objets d’Art” collection and is a tribute to the origins of Michel Parmigiani. The inspiration for L’Armoriale stems from a journey undertaken by Guido Terreni in Italy – a voyage not only to explore Michel Parmigiani’s origins but also to revel in the architectural wonders of the area
At the core of this pocket watch lies a mechanical movement dating from 1890 and signed A. Golay Leresche & Fils in Geneva, showcasing a chronograph minute repeater. It is a veritable piece of history, a testament to the essence of Renaissance architecture of the time. Michel Parmigiani rescued this movement from obscurity. In 1985, Michel Parmigiani restored the movement and added a perpetual calendar developed in his Ateliers PMAT (Parmigiani Fleurier Mesure et Art du Temps).
Today, the movement showcases a chronograph, a minute repeater, and a perpetual calendar featuring a moon phase set against an aventurine sky and hand-hammered moons in white gold. The movement beats at a frequency of 2.5 Hz, equivalent to 18,000 vibrations per hour. Additionally, it features a minute repeater – enabling on demand striking of hours, quarters, and minutes coupled with a central seconds chronograph.
This exceptional calibre seamlessly integrates all the fundamental functions and complexities inherent in the art of watchmaking. Every aspect of this movement, from its gears to the meticulously engraved and polished bridges, serves as a testament to the exceptional mastery of Parmigiani Fleurier.
The sumptuous dial, with a mordant brown hue delicately engraved in the “mezzo vibrato” theme, embodies a fusion of craftsmanship, art, and technical prowess. The engraved ring encircling the dial elegantly reflects the almond motifs present on the case and lugs. The white gold counters, also intricately engraved and adorned with delicate rings, add a subtle touch to the overall composition.
Much of the watch’s allure is due to the exquisite artistry of Master Enameller Vanessa Lecci. With her meticulous craftsmanship and extensive experience in enamelling, the 18-carat white gold case back of L’Armoriale stands as a grand feu enamel masterpiece. Drawing inspiration from the floors of Mantua’s Palazzo Te, the motifs are intricately engraved, with each cavity filled using coloured translucent enamel. The enamel shades adorning the back of L’Armoriale are meticulously chosen from a thoughtfully curated palette, featuring hues of yellow, red, and translucent brown, and are inspired by the coat of arms of the Gonzaga family, owners of Palazzo Te.
The chain on L’Armoriale pocket watch stands out as a remarkable creation by the master chain-maker Laurent Jolliet. Notably, Laurent Jolliet holds the distinction of being one of the last practitioners of his craft, infusing exceptional creation with a rare authenticity. Collaborating closely with the Parmigiani Fleurier team, Jolliet ensured that the chain was in perfect harmony with the overall design, its motif mirroring the hand-engraved patterns on the watch case, as well as on the latch, establishing an elegant aesthetic continuity. The watch chain is shaped by hand with meticulous precision. Each individual link of the chain has been carefully designed to ensure maximum flexibility and durability, while upholding Parmigiani Fleurier’s distinctive aesthetic and style.
At the heart of L’Armoriale, a creation designed to commemorate Michel Parmigiani’s birthday, resides a horological masterpiece of extraordinary complexity and beauty. A significant contributor to its splendid aesthetic lies in the engraving by master engravers Eddy Jaquet and Christophe Blandenier internationally acclaimed artists renowned for their expertise. The 18-carat white gold case of the L’Armoriale features the Maison’s distinctive motifs, consistently present in other unique creations crafted annually for Michel Parmigiani’s birthday. Blandenier’s contribution to this case is nothing short of an artistic triumph. The pattern, which runs across the handles, creates a fascinating visual effect of depth and texture, with every detail of this motif meticulously engraved by hand.
The caseband itself stands as a masterpiece of engraving, embellished with palmettes chiselled into the body of the precious gold, and while polished fluting adds an additional layer of sophistication. Every facet of the case band reflects exquisite precision, a testament to the attention to the meticulous attention to detail that Blandenier devotes dedicated to every stage of his work. The master’s touch extends even to the dial of L’Armoriale, where a stylised “Florentine” motif enhances the overall refinement of the watch. The attention to detail doesn’t waver, extending to the latch that activates the minute repeater. Treated with the same meticulousness as the case middle, it boasts fine engravings and impeccable details. The watch’s pendant and crown also undergo refined engraving, adding an overarching touch of elegance.
Inspired by a pocket watch featuring Jaquemarts and an automaton scene titled “Moses Striking the Rock,” the engraving on the L’Armoriale case introduces an ornamental motif that imparts richness and depth to the piece, elevating it to a remarkable artistic dimension.
