In June 2023, Gislain Aucremanne was appointed as Heritage Curator Director of Bvlgari and has often been in the news since then. Tasked with the preservation and transmission of the haute joaillerie heritage of Bvlgari, he has been responsible for curating the heritage pieces that the maison showcases at the Domvs area of its historic boutique at Via dei Condotti in Rome. “Day & Night Magazine” caught up with Aucremanne to understand what he does
Can you explain what is your role and your responsibilities as Heritage Curator Director for Bvlgari?
Bvlgari boasts a remarkable 140-year heritage, offering a wealth of stories to explore, showcasing its distinctive style, and inspiring future creations. My team and I work to preserve the historical archives, which include sketches, family documents, design projects, videos, and photos.
We also have a museum collection – called the Bvlgari Heritage Collection – comprising jewels, watches and precious objects representing all the history of the Maison. These pieces are carefully selected and presented in the various exhibition and cultural events. Transmitting our knowledge to both our teams and everyone who wants to know more about Bvlgari is an important value of the Maison, and I am very happy to be part of this educational mission.
Can you tell us about your academic and career achievements, which led you to this position?
As an Art Historian and museum expert, I was mainly educated at the École du Louvre (at the famous museum in Paris). From my early days, I have had a great interest in the ancient civilisations – Egyptian, Greek, and Roman – and I specialised in antique jewellery.
After years working in the exhibition and in the education teams of various museums in Paris and abroad, I entered the world of Brand heritage with experiences in several jewellery Maisons. My first encounter with Bvlgari was during the great exhibition organised at the Grand Palais, in 2010-2011, as I was working on the museum side.
The next ten years were all dedicated to heritage projects on jewellery history, from educational events to cultural exhibitions. In 2023, I had the privilege of becoming the Heritage Curator Director of Bvlgari. This position is at the crossroads of both my never-ending passion for Ancient Rome and its beauty, and my various key experiences in the worlds of museums and jewellery.
Bvlgari has been hosting exhibitions of different aspects of the Bvlgari heritage in Domvs for the past one year; what is the reason for it?
The values of sharing and transmitting our history to everyone are the reasons for the creation of the Domvs. Named after the Latin word meaning “House or Home” the Domvs is a home for the Bvlgari heritage and a place to discover it. Like a museum, this heritage gallery changes twice a year, with a rotating selection of pieces from the Bvlgari Heritage Collection and often includes loans from private collectors.
In 2024, to celebrate the 140th anniversary of the Maison, the Domvs was renovated and made accessible to everyone who can visit the historic boutique at 10, Via dei Condotti. Located within a historical room of the store, which used to be the gallery of precious silver since the 1930s, the Domvs now offers a unique experience. With the help of contemporary exhibition designers, the Domvs combines a historical dimension with a modern touch.
Bvlgari and Elizabeth Taylor are inextricably linked in history; would you be considering an exhibition in Domvs that focuses on Liz Taylor and more comprehensively on movie stars and their fascination with Bvlgari jewels?
Elizabeth Taylor has indeed been one of the most famous and important collectors of Bvlgari jewels. Cinema icons like her have been presented a lot in our past exhibitions around the world. As a curator, my role is also to balance the topics and let the public discover new themes. Of course, I never exclude displaying some of her fabulous jewels in the exhibitions, which are absolute masterpieces.
The cabochon cut is considered an iconic part of the Bvlgari heritage; what in your opinion are the other heritage icons of Bvlgari?
Bvlgari has been a pioneer in jewellery for many years, introducing new designs, new combinations of colours, and renewing materials and techniques. The Serpenti jewellery is the most famous icon, celebrated for both its inspiration and craftsmanship. Several exhibits on the Serpenti collection show it as a true art form.
Many other icons have been invented by the Maison, from Monete (coin jewels) to the modular jewels of the 1980s, from the bold cabochon brooches of the 1960s to the legendary sautoirs of the 1970s, from the Bvlgari Bvlgari watches that originated in 1975-1977 to the launch of the B.zero1 ring in 1999.
Let me conclude with one of my favourite icons: Tubogas. Very complex technically, this important icon has a very distinctive and recognisable design. Our next exhibition in Domvs will be dedicated to this modern creation, giving the public an opportunity to discover its incredible history.
