The Pythagorean theorem helped explain the “divine proportions” of geometry found in the beauty of nature. Patterns and designs in nature can be mathematically deconstructed into a golden ratio of 1.618 (also known as phi), such as the formation of seeds in a sunflower or the pattern on the skin of a pineapple. This magical ratio has also been used to calculate golden geometrical shapes that create harmonious aesthetics in geometry, architecture, and art (examples include Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, Le Corbusier’s architecture, Xenakis’s music, and the Egyptian pyramids, to name a few). How does all of this affect watchmaking? Montblanc explains with its latest homage to the theorem; other new editions such as its Perpetual Calendar and Metamorphosis are equally beguiling…
Heritage Manufacture Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition 100
Inspired by historical Minerva wristwatches, Montblanc unveils its latest Perpetual Calendar featuring vintage aesthetics with a new burnt caramel dial and a fully polished 18K rose gold case. With its patented Manufacture complication, this timepiece is one of the most readable with well-positioned indications and the possibility of setting the time both forwards and backwards through the crown, allowing the rapid adjustment of one month in under a minute. The Manufacture calibre MB 29.22 comprises 378 components of which 259 are dedicated to the perpetual calendar function. It is composed solely of wheels and cams in contrast to most perpetual calendars that use levers, enabling the adjustment of the watch via the crown in both directions (which is not possible with levers). Secondly, it prevents any setting between the hours of 6 pm and 12 pm, when manipulation could damage the movement. The watch offers a realistic domed rose gold-coated moonphase – extremely precise and only requires adjustment every 122 years – surrounded by a starry sky. Combined with a very practical dual-time function with a 24-hour indicator, it is particularly useful when travelling. A brown sfumato alligator strap completes the watch.
Heritage Pythagore Small Second Limited Edition 148
Montblanc unveils a new Manufacture movement inspired by the historical Minerva Pythagore calibre 48 created in the 1940s, and is debuting two models in 18K rose or white gold with new distinctive vintage-coloured dials, such as blue or burnt caramel. They feature the Minerva secret signature and are equipped with the new Manufacture calibre MB M14.08 with geometrical shapes that recall the historical Pythagore movement. Inspired by the shape of the original movement and following the Golden Section theorem, Montblanc’s engineers developed a new Manufacture Calibre MB M14.08. They first defined the movement diameter (14 lines) so it could contain a golden pentagon (A-B-C-D-E-A), in which a five-point branch star was obtained via the intersection of golden triangles. Then the four bridges of the movement were positioned to be parallel to the section (e.g., AB or EC, and DC or EB). Furthermore, other dimensions were calculated to be multiples or fractions of the golden number φ. The timepieces are adorned with matching brown or blue vintage Sfumato alligator straps, and are limited to 148 pieces in homage to the historical Pythagore movement.
Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Limited Edition 18
The idea, when developing the innovative patented Suspended Exo Tourbillon, was to create a one-minute tourbillon that would be more visible, further revealing its beauty. This particular construction allowed them to keep a large and impressive balance wheel, eliminating the need to increase the size of the movement or the case. The massive balance wheel, raised 3.2 mm higher than the dial, appears to be floating above it, thanks to a dedicated tourbillon bridge with only one arm which is curved. The complexity of the Exo Tourbillon comes from the dimensions of the long axis that need to be extremely precise, along with the complication construction itself, which requires that the balance’s axis must be perfectly perpendicular to the movement. The Exo Tourbillon saves more energy than a conventional tourbillon as the cage is smaller in size and free of the weight of the balance wheel. It is also balanced by two gold pillars that equilibrate the cage. The 44.8 mm case comes in 18K white gold, with the sapphire crystal case back revealing the hand-finished manually wound movement calibre MB M16.68. It also provides a totally transparent view of the Exo Tourbillon from the front to the back.
Star Legacy Metamorphosis Limited Edition 8
This innovative timepiece, in a sparkling blue colour, transforms itself by revealing two different faces. A number of fine watchmaking complications come into play, all driven by the hand-crafted Manufacture calibre MB M67.60, a highly complicated movement. The transformation between the two faces is highly complex and involves more than 320 individual components, all of them hand-crafted, and which move at the same time. Additionally, the Exo Tourbillon alone contains over 100 components. When the shutters are closed, the watch displays a worldtime at six o’clock in the form of a turning, domed Northern-Hemisphere globe surrounded by a 24-hour scale and a day/night indication. At 12 o’clock, the rhodium-coated balance wheel with blued hairspring, beats at 18,000 oscillations per hour. When its shutters are opened, the dial reveals Montblanc’s patented one-minute Exo Tourbillon, held in place by a sapphire crystal bridge, and representing the sun at 12 o’clock. At six o’clock, a realistic, three-dimensional moon with its exact position in the sky, as viewed from Earth, turns constantly around the globe in a gyroscopic way, exactly as it would make its journey around the Earth. The moon is presented against a backdrop of aventurine that shimmers like a starry night sky.
