Roger Dubuis pulls some skeletons out the closet
Excellence in craftsmanship is at the core of Roger Dubuis, a Manufacture that has created its own exceptional world of Haute Horlogerie, and is distinguished by its talent for using technique to enhance aesthetics and cultivate strong concepts that emerge from unrestrained creativity
The partnership between accomplished master watchmaker (and brand namesake), Roger Dubuis, and outstanding designer, Carlos Dias, led to the Manufacture being founded in 1995, with extraordinary creations that boast a harmony of time-honoured watchmaking proficiency and progressive design. Roger Dubuis’ distinctive skeletonised timepieces have cemented the watchmaker’s reputation as a pioneer of contemporary skeleton calibresand its renown as an expert in architectural and technical mechanics. Another stand-out quality of the Maison is that every single one of the timepieces that it has produced is validated by the most demanding signature in fine watchmaking, the Hallmark of Geneva. Roger Dubuis is the only brand to boast the “Poinçon de Genève” stamp on all of its timepieces, which is a testament to the Manufacture’s meticulous approach, applied from the first development phases, all the way through to the last test performed on the watch. In 2015, Roger Dubuis celebrates its savoir-faire in the art of contemporary skeleton calibres, dubbing this year “the year of the skeleton”. The trail-blazing Manufacture revealed a fascinating range of Excalibur models, in addition to powerful reinterpretations of equally cutting-edge ingenuity in its other idiosyncratic areas of expertise – the micro-rotor and the flying tourbillon – these creations extend or infer the unparalleled Astral Skeleton conceptin marvellous new ways.
Excalibur Spider Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon
One of many Roger Dubuis technical skeleton models, which go by the title of Excalibur Spider; this highly complex and aesthetically detailed timepiece also boasts a skeletonised case, hands, and flange. Roger Dubuis is the only Manufacture to offer a Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon, and this adrenaline rush of a watch takes things up a notch with all of its skeletonised key features. Its sporty, motor-racing-inspired appearance is enhanced by the contrasts of titanium and black DLC-titanium case, and a variety of red aluminium elements on the inner bezel ring, crown and case band. The RD01SQ movement is on full display from the dial side. Notably, the counter rings surrounding the double tourbillon and the small seconds also feature a speedometer-type design. The sensational Excalibur Spider Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon is limited to 188 pieces and has a variety of colour strap options.
Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon
Sporty sophistication is the best way to describe this pair of technical skeleton timepieces; one version is the epitome of minimalist elegance, while the other boasts more opulent elegance. The black-treated skeletonised movement, DLC-coated titanium case and flange are the distinguishing Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon features of both versions, however, one is framed by a rubber bezel set with 60 baguette-cut diamonds (totalling approximately 2.24 carats). The diamonds are actually set into the rubber moulding over the metal bezel. The wristwatches are powered by the RD505SQ Calibre and both versions are completed with black rubber straps. The version with diamonds is limited to just 88 pieces.
Excalibur Automatic Skeleton
Three exquisite editions of this model encase Roger Dubuis’ new in-house Automatic Skeleton Calibre: RD820SQ – the Manufacture’s first skeletonised automatic movement with a micro-rotor. This achievement demonstrates Roger Dubuis’ watchmaking team’s exceptional command of technical and aesthetic parameters, including by lavishing meticulous expertise on the gear wheels and finishes; as well as maintaining the transparency of skeleton-work despite the self-winding train and the micro-rotor, while simultaneously ensuring sufficient winding power. The three versions of the Excalibur Automatic Skeleton include one in pink gold with a chestnut brown alligator strap, another in pink gold, a bezel set with 60 baguette-cut diamonds (approximating 1.84 carats) and a chestnut brown alligator strap, and finally, one with a black DLC titanium case, completed with a black alligator strap.
Excalibur Brocéliande in pink gold
Interpreting an explicitly feminine vision of the skeleton, this bejewelled timepiece was inspired by the fairy tale romance from the legend of King Arthur, which transpired in the mysterious forest of Brocéliande; the entire Excalibur range has been inspired by this great tale; the word Excalibur, of course, referring to King Arthur’s magical sword. Jewellers and specialists in skeletonising worked together in order to artfully add decorative elements to the RD505SQ calibre movement without disturbing its operation. The 3.44-carat, 28-piece limited edition is completed with a red strap, the set pink gold case with gem-set bezel, lugs and flange frames matching red foliage composed of semi-precious stones in autumnal colours.
