Roger Dubuis raises the bar for SIHH 2016
Before its highly anticipated glamorous and cinematic presentation at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie(SIHH) 2016, Roger Dubuis has unveiled its gorgeous array of timepieces including two stunning additions to its Velvet collection, the Blossom Velvet Pink and Velvet Secret Heart, and another remarkable men’s watch, the Excalibur Automatic Skeleton Carbon
Having previously provided tantalising glimpses of its uncanny ability to speak to the female heart and soul through the Velvet collection, Roger Dubuis is unleashing the full force of its seductive powers at the SIHH 2016 that represent multiple facets of the Roger Dubuis woman: These intrinsically sophisticated and dressy timepieces epitomise the ravishing charm of elegant and sophisticated “femmes fatales” with their strong personality and their taste for precious and exclusive horology.
Meanwhile, to remind men that they are never far from its thoughts, Roger Dubuis clothes its chivalrous Excalibur knight in a handsome high-tech suit of armour for the Excalibur Automatic Skeleton Carbon. The use of the ultra-light and extra-hard fibre sheet moulding compound creates a super sporty appearance that powerfully enhances the virile charm of this 3D take on mechanical transparency.
Blossom Velvet Pink
The 36mm pink gold case is rimmed with two rows of brilliant-cut diamonds adorning the bezel and lugs, transforming the Velvet’s classic central “third lug” into a precious link. These sparkling gems surround the characteristic split-level mother-of-pearl dial graced with an engraved and sculpted floral marquetry motif. The signature Velvet central tonneau or barrel shape – contributing to its trompe l’oeil effect and swept over by the hours and minutes hands – is delicately accentuated by diamonds
Gifted artisans have played with softly curved shapes and subtle shades of pink to form a unique floral décor skilfully fashioned from an exceptionally thick plate of Grand Feu enamel. These exquisite blooms rest on dainty scrolling patterns evoking delicate stems and tendrils. At the heart of each sparkles a diamond in a prong-free gold-tube bezel setting inserted into the centre of the flower, once again showcasing the Haute Joalllerie expertise cultivated by the Manufacture. Beneath this vibrantly “alive” dial with its clever depth effects ticks a mechanical self-winding movement with a 48-hour power reserve, Calibre RD821 bearing the iconic Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark.
Firmly yet softly embracing the curves of the feminine wrist, the shimmering satin-finish fabric strap – in a blushing pink matching the dial – provides a perfectly smooth, lustrous backdrop for the 154 diamonds (totalling approx.1.9 carats) and the elaborately ornamental dial. It is clasped in place by a pink gold adjustable folding buckle set with brilliant- cut diamonds.
This floral wonder composing a poetic anthem to womanhood with all its subtly feline undertones is issued in an 88-piece edition.
Velvet Secret Heart
The Velvet Secret Heart reveals two rows of sparkling diamonds that rim the bezel and the inner bezel ring, surrounding two arcs of a circle bearing the Arabic date numerals that in turn frame radiating Roman numerals and the classic tonneau-shaped centre of the Velvet. The distinctive charm of this model flaunts the curved layout of the slanting Roman numerals and the extra-large upright XII and VI conjure up visions of a precious vase. The RD821B movement with its double-retrograde date function makes an ideal match for the tonneau shape since it follows the symmetry of the dial and sensually hugs its every curve. This is the first ‘small complication’ to enrich the Velvet collection with a touch of fascinatingly original technicality.
Such secret heart of the bi-retrograde jumping date that regularly skips a beat is adopted in a limited edition of eight pieces only. Each is fitted with an opulent blue alligator strap perfectly matching the mesmerising shade of the dial and admirably complementing its exquisite femininity.
Excalibur Automatic Skeleton Carbon
First presented at the SIHH 2015, the Excalibur Automatic Skeleton became Roger Dubuis’ first non-tourbillon skeleton timepiece, powered by its first skeletonised automatic movement. For its brave new charge in 2016, this all-conquering model now appears in a spectacular new interpretation clad in a high-tech composite known as carbon fibre sheet moulding compound (SMC).
In its latest iteration, the Excalibur Automatic Skeleton has been treated to some brand-new gear that proves an ideal match for its avant-garde tech-watch approach. A lightweight material greatly appreciated in the aerospace industry with its need for fuel-efficient aircraft, sheet moulding compound (SMC) boasts extremely high productivity and cost efficiency, while also enabling excellent part reproducibility and the possibility of creating components with complex shapes and integrated functions. SMC is produced by compressing carbon fibres with resin and steel moulded at extremely high temperatures, which is then reworked and compounded with resin.
Fans will need little reminding of Excalibur’s main assets, notably including a round case, fluted bezel, triple lugs and distinctive Dauphine- type hands. This collection embodies a decidedly different way of interpreting horological traditions and as such lends itself particularly well to flaunting the vanguard role played by Roger Dubuis in the realm of contemporary skeleton-work. Each of the Manufacture’s pioneering skeleton calibres is designed from scratch and embodies a unique merging of form and functionality.
The RD820SQ automatic skeleton calibre is equipped with an open-worked version of the signature Roger Dubuis micro-rotor introduced in 2005 and delivering winding power equivalent to that of a central rotor. Undaunted by the challenge of reducing the weight of this micro-rotor by skeletonising it while also maintaining its efficiency, the Roger Dubuis watchmakers also played with the height of the micro-rotor as well as raising the star shape to create fascinating 3D effects.
Despite the size and nature of the self-winding train and micro-rotor, these horological Warriors have also succeeded in keeping the skeleton-work delightfully transparent. Each of the 167 movement components is meticulously hand-finished on all faces in accordance with the stringent requirements of the Poinçon de Genève certification a guarantee of the finest craftsmanship.
