The heretic watchmaker from MB&F
The year 2005 saw a rebellion in the world of watchmaking – a talented horologist who had worked wonders in established brands broke away to celebrate his creativity, and that of his friends’, by founding his own Maison: MB&F. Since then, watch aficionados wait eagerly to see Maximilian Büsser’s latest offerings
“Day & Night Magazine” had the opportunity to quiz the poster boy of rebels, Maximilian Büsser, Owner & Creative Director of MB&F, about the M.A.D. Gallery, art, the brand, and what makes him tick.
Q: Is the M.A.D. Gallery an extension of MB&F or is it a completely separate idea?
A: The first gallery in Geneva started as a place where I could show all the MB&F pieces and where I could explain to people what I was trying to do by showcasing other artists’ similar thinking. When Chicara Nagata designs a motorbike or Frank Buchwald creates a lamp, they are taking the practical parts out of their work and transforming it into works of art.
We were the first watchmaking brand to say that we are not interested in giving you time, and that was heretic. Everyone wanted to burn me at the stake. My work is not about giving you time; I did not spend three years on R&D, 18 months of handcrafting 400-600 components, and one month of assembly to give you something that you get free of charge on your phone. The idea was to showcase mechanical artists and through that make people understand us.
We were so clueless when we opened the first gallery that we did not even have a card-swiping machine. We were embarrassed to ask our first buyer to pay by cash. I was just hoping not to lose too much money, but it just grew to incredible proportions.
I have been a creator most of my life; now I have discovered a passion for curating. I curate great artists and great works. I want to create works such as Balthazar in MB&F and also seek, across the world, these incredible souls who think a little bit like me, but in a completely different way: a parallel world – that is why our magazine has that name.
I was interviewing Xia Hang, the Chinese artist, at the M.A.D. Gallery Dubai this week. When I asked him, “How do you create?” and “Where do you get your ideas?” his answer was similar to what mine would be and I felt, for the first time, a little bit more normal. I would, earlier, first sketch something and then change it again and again before transforming it into an object. But lately, I just see things; it is kind of scary. It is always when I am not doing anything.
This is why I am more creative in Dubai than in Geneva, because here I have more time where I can sit down, relax and think. I can actually visualise an object, work and finish that object in my mind and then transfer it onto paper. Xia Hang said the same thing; he said, “I see things”, and he then goes on a computer (he is a graphic designer) and works on it.
We both see things, but the end products are very different. That is why the M.A.D. Gallery exists – because I love creating and curating, and there are some incredible artists in parallel worlds who do the same things.
Q:Are you planning to open a M.A.D. Gallery in North America?
A: If we were a normal company we would, but we are not. When we opened our second gallery in Taipei, the regional press was astonished at our choice of location. But we opened in Taipei because Lori Shen, our agent in Taiwan for years, wanted it there.
When Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi came to me 3-4 years ago and asked to open a M.A.D. Gallery, I asked him if the Seddiqis were expecting to make money out of it. He said no but felt that it would be great concept to have in Dubai.
Abdulmagied Seddiqi has helped me a lot with Harry Winston and MB&F, so when the Seddiqis ask me for something, I agree. We are in Dubai because of the Seddiqis. The next step should be the Americas, but we have not yet found the Seddiqis or Lori Shen of America. It is always about who we work with – the people.
Q:Were you surprised at the success of the M.A.D. Gallery, and kinetic art, in Dubai?
A: I continue to be amazed by the success we have in all sorts of places and times, and I think it is healthy. The day I stop being surprised is the day I become complacent. I am always surprised when people know MB&F. When we opened in Taiwan, I was hoping for Lori’s sake that it would work well.
When we opened here, we chose the right environment at Alserkal. The area has very little traffic especially in summer, which is very challenging. We were also over-budget. We were the first gallery to open in the extension and were not sure if anybody would even come. But it was the right decision. Our sales at the Seddiqi stores has already doubled this year, thanks to our Gallery here. We don’t advertise; we communicate only through PRs, our products and our Galleries –our only weapons to make people understand.
Q: What was the reasoning behind the creation of HM8?
A: I have never created a product as an improvement over an existing product. But there was something missing between the HM3 and HM5; the story was not finished. I had an urge to create that product. Each of our HMs has been revolutionary; the HM8 is completely different from the other HMs and our other products. For the first time, we took the risk of taking two existing products, melding them together to make this. I was a little nervous about people’s reactions. Against all business acumen, we did it and we also didn’t limit it.
We needed current products in our stores. All our products of the past two years, all limited editions, are completely sold out and we did not have any recent products. Due to this, we did not limit the HM8.
Q:How hard is it for an independent brand to offer after-sales?
A: It depends on the fundamentals of your brand. MB&F is an extension of me; something I am proud of. Money has never been the motive and I don’t have any shareholders to account to. From the beginning, after-sales has been a priority and, as per policy, would not take more than six weeks; even some of the big brands cannot boast of that.
Also, the product quality is amazing; we have come out with 12 calibres in 11 years and, by this year-end, would have delivered close to 2,000 pieces across all of them. This year, we would probably have 50 pieces come back for repairs/service, which is 2.5 per cent – an incredible figure, considering the fact that nobody else is allowed to service our watches. You can avoid after-sales if you produce great quality in the first place.
For both big and small brands, the first customers are the testers; for MB&F, we are the testers and, only if satisfied, launch it. We are so sure of our quality that, for our tenth anniversary last December, we launched the Tribe. We are giving a two-year warranty to all our clients who sign up, even if their purchase is ten years old.
At a Christie’s auction recently, an LM1 sold for $58,000 when it retails at $79,000-80,000. This is for a five-year-old, used product. The reason is because it is a limited edition, and for every watch that auctions at Phillips, Sotheby’s and Christie’s, we offer free service and free warranty. For an additional fee, we redo the case. So, if that buyer chooses to, he can send in the watch and, for CHF1,800, get a new watch.
We are also stopping production of LM1, even though it is a bestseller. We plan to make it a collectible. We have produced around 360 pieces – 60 per year – in the past six years. If our clients want sell their watches, they will get a higher price. One LM1 was sold in Hong Kong two weeks ago at $63,000 because we had announced that we are stopping production of it. Production of LM1 white gold has stopped since last year and is no longer available in retail.
You have to make sacrifices if you want long-term life and sustainability of the company; we have stopped growing since 2013 – growth doesn’t interest me. Sustainability of MB&F is my long-term project. In June, our directors had an off-site brainstorming session to figure out how to ensure that MB&F is around 10-20 years later, even in my (or any other key person’s) absence. How do we ensure that the brand is alive and gives the same service? I can do that as I have no shareholders.
