The latest offerings from Zenith
During LVMH Watch Week at the end of January, high watchmaking maison Zenith unveiled its 2024 offerings. These include the long-awaited Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar, two new versions of the Chronomaster Sport in green, as well as a gem-set edition of Chronomaster Sport, in addition to a Chronomaster Sport in titanium, new editions of Pilot and additional offerings from its Icons: Pilot
Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar
In the new Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar, Zenith is combining the cutting-edge performance of its legendary automatic high-frequency chronograph calibre’s latest incarnation with a triple calendar and moon phase, all in a compact and historically inspired design that’s unmistakably Chronomaster. With a host of functions, the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar is possibly the most versatile and functional line within the collection. While the 1/10th of a second chronograph is as prominent and legible as the standard Chronomaster Original, the inclusion of the complete calendar is executed in a manner that makes it intuitive to read without cluttering the dial.
The days of the week and months are displayed in symmetrically positioned windows above the chronograph counters, while the date window is positioned in the traditional El Primero position of 04:30. The moonphase display is placed with the chronograph’s 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock. The watch’s compact 38mm case in steel isn’t just vintage-inspired but is based on the exact blueprint and proportions of the A386 from 1969. With its bezel-less construction and featuring a raised and domed sapphire crystal, the incorporation of a complete calendar with moonphase mechanism to the automatic high-frequency 1/10th of a second chronograph calibre without altering the case’s proportions is truly ingenious.
The timepiece comes in two distinct dial versions: A sportier silvery-white “panda” opaline dial with black counters and 1/10th of a second scale, and an opulent opaline slate-grey dial with silvery-white counters and scale that is directly inspired by the small series of El Primero triple calendar prototypes from 1970. Both versions are highlighted by rose gold-tone applied baton markers and hands, adding a warm contrast that brings out the polished rose gold moon set on a metallic blue sunray-patterned disk with five-pointed stars.
A third dial variant, exclusively for the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Boutique Edition available only at Zenith boutiques, is done in a sunburst olive-green tone with golden applied markers and hands. In each version, the calendar wheels match the dial colours. A new variant of the latest generation El Primero automatic high-frequency chronograph calibre, the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar’s El Primero 3610 operates at a rate of 5 Hz (36,000 VpH) to deliver a true 1/10th of a second chronograph function. Even with the addition of the complete calendar, its efficient transmission allows for a power reserve of approximately 60 hours.
Chronomaster Sport Green
Zenith has added two new models to the Chronomaster Sport line with the first green ceramic bezel and integrated rubber strap as well as the first gem-set reference. For the first time in the Chronomaster Sport core collection, the engraved 1/10th of a second bezel on top of the 41mm steel case with pump-style pushers is crafted in green ceramic and is fitted with a three-link steel bracelet with adjustable clasp. This play on tones and contrasts extends to the dial, which is done in a green lacquer matching the tone of the ceramic bezel. Unmistakably a Chronomaster, it features Zenith’s signature tricolour counters in shades of grey and blue. The date wheel has also been colour-matched to the dial.
Two references are available: one with the three-link stainless steel bracelet, and the second with Zenith’s new rubber strap developed specifically for the Chronomaster Sport. Crafted from soft yet durable FKM rubber, the strap is designed to be perfectly integrated with the case and its colour matched to the bezel.
Chronomaster Sport
For those seeking something more dazzling, the Chronomaster Sport, a boutique exclusive, is crafted in a radiant rose gold case and bracelet, with a dazzling bezel featuring expertly set baguette-cut white diamonds, black spinels, and grey as well as blue sapphires on the bezel.
Crafted from a slab of meteorite, the dial is meticulously hand-finished and then given a golden colour that reveal the meteorite’s unique Windmanstätten pattern with a warm, solar glow. Adding to the complexity of working with an extra-terrestrial material, the dial is set with baguette-cut diamond hour markers and applied chronograph counters in the traditional shades of grey and blue, while the date wheel is in a gold tone matching the dial.
The Chronomaster Sport is equipped with the latest version of the El Primero calibre, dubbed the El Primero 3600. With its high frequency of 5 Hz (36,000 VpH), the movement offers a true 1/10th of second indication. Its autonomy has also been rendered more efficient, with an extended power reserve of 60 hours. The sapphire display back provides an unobstructed view of the movement’s contemporary architecture and features a sleeker and more open design, revealing a blue column wheel and open rotor marked with the five-pointed star Zenith.
Chronomaster Sport Titanium
Ahead of the opening matches of Patrick Mouratoglou’s UTS 2024 season, where Zenith proudly continued its role as Official Timekeeper, the brand unveiled the lightest iteration of its award-winning 1/10th of a second with the Chronomaster Sport Titanium – along with a new range of integrated rubber straps.
To highlight the sleek grey tones of grade 5 titanium, the Chronomaster Sport Titanium’s 41mm case is given a predominantly satin-brushed finish – including the crown and pump-style pushers. The bezel, also crafted in titanium and engraved with a 1/10th of a second scale, features a sunburst satin-brushed decoration that truly sets it apart from all other Chronomaster Sport references. The case and bracelet’s chamfers as well as the rim of the bezel and the case back are polished.
Keeping with the case’s muted chromatics, the timepiece’s dial reinterprets Zenith’s signature tricolour design in shades of grey. The sunray-patterned dial is done in a galvanic nickel-grey colour, featuring chronograph counters in three different tones of anthracite, grey, and silver. The three-link bracelet, with an adjustable clasp, is also made in vertically satin-brushed titanium. The Chronomaster Sport Titanium weighs 30% less than its steel equivalent.
And for those seeking an even sportier look and feel, Zenith is debuting a new line of straps it has developed for the Chronomaster Sport line as an alternative reference to the metal bracelets and also available to purchase separately. Crafted from durable and supple FKM rubber, considered the gold standard of rubber for its ability to withstand extreme heat and its resistance to aggressive chemicals, the straps are designed to be perfectly integrated with the case. Available in black, blue, green, and white, the straps are delivered with folding clasps.
The Chronomaster Sport Titanium is equipped with the latest version of the El Primero calibre, dubbed the El Primero 3600. With its high frequency of 5 Hz (36,000 VpH), the movement offers a true 1/10th of second indication. Its autonomy has also been rendered more efficient, with an extended power reserve of 60 hours. The sapphire display back provides an unobstructed view of the movement’s contemporary architecture and features a sleeker and more open design, revealing a blue column wheel and open rotor marked with the five-pointed star Zenith.
Pilot Automatic Boutique Edition
The purest expression of Zenith’s Pilot watch, the Pilot Automatic Boutique Edition is crafted in a 40mm stainless teel case with a distinct flat-top round bezel fixed on top of the rounded case, with vertically satin-brushed and polished chamfers. The oversized crown takes on an edgy angular form, while remaining easy to operate – even with gloves on.
The textured, grooved dial recalls the corrugated metal sheets that made up the fuselage of many older aircrafts. The oversized luminescent Arabic numerals are fashioned in a sleek font and are applied as metal markers filled with white Super-LumiNova. At 6 o’clock above the date window with a white on blue date wheel, the luminescent hour marker takes the form of a flat white line, recalling the artificial horizon instrument in plane. A source of pride for the Manufacture, the dial is signed “Pilot”, as Zenith remains the first and only brand to hold the rights to mark its dials with the term.
The Pilot Automatic is powered by the El Primero 3620 high-frequency manufacture movement, visible through the display back. Its 60-hour power reserve is reached by means of a blackened oscillating weight that resembles an “artificial horizon” dashboard instrument, which informs the pilot of the aircraft’s orientation relative to the Earth’s horizon. The supplied blue cordura-effect rubber strap and brown calfskin strap can be easily interchanged using the strap’s quick-release system.
Pilot Big Date Flyback Boutique Edition
The larger and more feature-packed of the two Pilot references, the Pilot Big Date Flyback Boutique Edition completes the line with an exceptional, aviation-oriented iteration of the latest generation El Primero automatic high-frequency chronograph calibre. Housed in a 42.5mm stainless steel case, it features two functions that are highly prized by aviators: the big date and the flyback function.
Beyond its easy readability, the oversized date display in the Pilot Big Date Flyback Boutique Edition features a next-gen patented compliant mechanism that advances and stabilises both of the big date’s wheels in less than 0.03 seconds. The big date’s wheels are coloured in the same blue tone as the dial. Originally conceived for aviators who wore thick sheepskin gloves, the flyback function allows the chronograph function to be reset to zero and restarted by a single push of a button, simplifying the pilot’s operations, and offering the possibility to record consecutive times without having to stop and restart.
The El Primero 3652 chronograph calibre with its “artificial horizon” rotor is visible through the display back. The Pilot Big Date Flyback comes on a blue cordura-effect rubber strap, with a brown calfskin strap provided. All the straps come with an integrated quick-release mechanism for easy swapping without tools.
Zenith Icons: Pilot – Act I
For the past few years, Zenith has been offering rare vintage pieces that have been curated, restored, and certified by the Manufacture through its Icons programme. As part of Zenith’s Horiz-On CSR initiative for a more sustainable future, the Zenith Icons programme contributes towards building a circular economy for its most emblematic historical references and allowing them to live on perpetually. For watch collectors, it offers unparalleled peace of mind by offering only 100% original examples that have been examined and certified by the Zenith Manufacture’s Heritage Department and restored respectfully of the watches’ original materials and components.
While most Zenith Icons capsule collections so far have focused on the earlier El Primero models that have gone on to shape the contemporary Chronomaster line, Zenith is now shining a light on another facet of heritage and one of its longest standing collections: the Pilot.
Uniting three references from the late 1960s and 1970s, the first Zenith Icons: Pilot capsule collection explores the professional and consumer side of Zenith Pilot watches from that era.
Tipo CP-2 Cairelli
Produced for the Italian army corps between 1968 and 1972 and delivered through Roman retailer A. Cairelli, the Tipo CP-2 chronograph was designed according to military specs, with enhanced legibility. Besides its rotating bezel, it stands out for its luminescent Arabic hour numerals and hands, which inspire modern Zenith Pilot creations.
A3821
Launched in 1972, the ref. A3821 (also referred to as 01.0180.415) stands out for its space-age design, featuring a dark deep sunken dial with luminescent markers and hands, and tachymeter on the flange ring. Housed in a voluminous case with rotating bezel, fitted on an integrated “lobster” bracelet made by Gay Frères, and a movement mounted on elastic suspension.
01.0230.415
The ref. 01.0230.415 stands out as the first Zenith El Primero chronograph with a display back in mineral glass revealing the revolutionary calibre. Along with its fellow Pilot-Diver models, it features a space-age design, with movement mounted on a suspension system as well as an integrated “lobster” bracelet made by Gay Frères.
