Storied high watchmaking brand Universal Genève disrupted the airwaves when they announced the launch of three special Polerouter SAS Tribute watches ahead of the marque’s return to haute horology in 2026. We caught up with Managing Director Gregory Bruttin, one of the brains behind the relaunch, to find out more about the brand Universal Genève
Why did you decide to join Universal Genève?
When I began my career, the first movement I bought was Universal Genève’s “Microtor.” For me, it was astounding – not just in its engineering but also its design. Throughout my career, I’ve developed many movements inspired by the “Microtor” because it is an exceptional mechanism.
After staying in my previous position for a long time, I felt it’s the right time to move on. I chose Universal Genève because of its strong movement and engineering heritage. I met the brand’s CEO, Georges Kern; we shared the same vision for the brand. It was the perfect match.
There have been previous attempts to relaunch the brand. What will you do differently to ensure success?
Before relaunching the brand, we needed to understand its market position, the uniqueness of the brand and reasons behind its past success. What made it one of the most famous brands during the 1960s and 1970s. The idea is not to start from scratch but to connect the present to the past as part of the brand’s historical legacy. We’ve also put an advisory board in place consisting of collectors and experts as guidance to take the right decisions. There have been mistakes in the previous attempts to revive the brand. We’ll do better.
Universal Genève has a rich history of unique movements and designs. Which collection or line will you begin with?
This was one of the biggest challenges when reimagining the “new Universal Genève.” However, November 15, 2024, marked the 70th anniversary of the launch of the Polerouter watch in 1954. We decided this was the perfect starting point for the brand’s second chapter. That’s why we launched these commemorative pieces on the same day as the first SAS transpolar flight took off from Copenhagen with the crew wearing the Universal Genève Polerouter.
Can you tell us more about the three Polerouter SAS Tribute watches?
The concept was to launch commemorative pieces to highlight Universal Genève’s heritage and innovation. That’s why we decided to use the famous “Microtor” movement. It’s a historical movement, and we reimagined the case, dial, and strap design entirely. The idea was to use a historical movement but with modern features – a fascinating combination. In this way, we bring together the best of the past and the present.
The aim is to position the brand where it belongs as an important name because “Universal Genève” was a prestigious brand. We want to use these pieces to showcase our industry knowledge and rightful status.
For this reason, we collaborated with artisan Laurent Jolliet, one of the last chain makers in Switzerland, to craft the bracelet. Inspired by the original design of Universal Genève, it’s handmade and extraordinary. This is the perfect step to highlight the brand’s historical expertise, respect for craftsmanship, and future vision.
Why did you produce only one piece of each of the three commemorative watches?
It was essential to make them as unique pieces rather than limited editions because we wanted to present exceptionally superior craftmanship, design, and aesthetics for this historic anniversary.
These commemorative pieces demonstrate the beauty of the product, the brand’s capabilities, our industry expertise, and our history. Luxury watches take time to develop and engineer, which is why the official relaunch of the brand, introducing new models will happen only in 2026. We need time to innovate and produce at the right quality level and in adequate quantities. We’ll start with one line and slowly expand to more collections.
What will the price range be? What are the brand’s future plans?
We haven’t determined the price range yet, but it will undoubtedly fall within the luxury watch category. Since Universal’s iconic movement is the “Microtor,” all watches will feature this mechanism. We also aim to further develop the “Microtor” movement in the future, as it is a core part of the brand’s identity. This was also a key reason for me joining the company. During my career, I have developed over ten movements based on the “Microtor,” and the idea is to expand in this direction in the future.
Will everything for the first brand line be manufactured in-house?
Our aim is to offer a reliable product of impeccable quality right from the launch of the brand, so we’ll be working with partners in the first instance. It’s essential to build on solid foundations, requiring know-how and expertise. Partnerships accelerate development and streamline the process. However, our vision is to develop Universal Geneve’s historic know-how in-house, so that the brand can stand on its own and operate as a fully-fledged brand.
