URWERK’s infatuation – Raging Gold
Martin Frei, URWERK’s co-founder and designer, is a self-confessed victim of the lure of gold. The designer’s infatuation for the noblest of materials that lives forever without a stain on its glory is how the UR-105 Raging Gold came to be. A shield of red gold carved in an intriguing pattern serves as the bezel on a titanium case.
Felix Baumgartner, URWERK’s co-founder and master watchmaker, explains that the aim was to make the UR-105 Raging Gold not only a pleasure to look at, but a pleasure to touch. The lines and the texture of the case go back to classic principles. The pattern derives from the hobnail motif “Clou de Paris” that was popular in high-class watches and reminiscent of his “Madeleine de Proust”. Embedding this little touch of history in a disruptive model and bringing a conservative style to a revolutionary watch was an adventurous risk that he took, according to Baumgartner.
Technically, the UR-105 works on the fundamental concept of Urwerk’s watchmaking, the wandering hour principle, in which each hour travels in turn across a 60-minute arc. This ancient and more intuitive way of telling the time is made easier by a mask made of PEEK, a semi-crystalline polymer, which hides the hours that have completed their 60-minute patrol. The mask is also superbly decorated in traditional style.
The UR-105 incorporates the latest developments in Urwerk’s constant efforts to add value to the wandering hour principle. The most intricate part of the mechanism, the carousel, which carries the hours in groups of three on four satellite discs, is hidden. It silently and unerringly brings the right hour to the right place at the right time.
Unlike their earlier models in which the satellites were mounted on Maltese crosses and suspended from the rotating arms, the brand found a way to improve on this idea, and the result can be felt in your fingertips when you set the time. There’s no friction, no jolts, just the dance of the satellites as their efforts have resulted in a much more fluid transmission.
On the back of the UR-105, turbines control the self-winding system. Switch the lever to FULL and the winding rotor reacts to your slightest movement to wind the mainspring. In the RED (reduced) position, the rotor’s movements are dampened to avoid excessive tension in the mainspring. In the STOP position, the self-winding mechanism is disengaged and the watch can be wound manually with the crown.
The UR-105 case is of 4N gold and the back in titanium with black PVD coating, with a width of 39.50 MM; a length of 53 MM; and a height of 16.8 MM, and sapphire crystal glass. With a power reserve of 48 hours, the timepiece is water resistant up to 30 M. The UR-105 Raging Gold is a limited edition of 22 watches.
