As is expected Bvlgari again created a world record with its Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar, the slimmest in the world, as part of its latest offerings at Watches and Wonders 2021. “Day & Night” magazine speaks to Fabrizio Buonamassa, Bvlgari Product Creation Executive Director, on the side lines of the event, to catch a glimpse of the inner workings of the marque…
I was right two years ago, when I guessed that a Perpetual Calendar would be next in the Octo Finissimo family?
Yes, two years ago when we spoke, it was already in the development process; it has been four years – more or less – in the making of the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar. It has been a very long process. This is the biggest launch for us, a new world record. This is made of titanium; we have two references. We love to make our world records in titanium as it is now our signature. We are also presenting today a platinum version with a blue dial and an alligator strap.
The watch is an integrated perpetual calendar, with three sub-dials, actually four with the leap-year indication at 6 o’clock, the day of the week at 7 o’clock, the months at 5 o’clock, and the big retrograde date at 12 o’clock. The movement is 2.75 mm thick, and the case is 5.8 mm thick. It is very clean and very pure in terms of design; we removed the numeral 12 as we aimed to have an easily readable dial. That is why we decided to have the retrograde date at 12 o’clock, and counters as big as possible for the day and the month.
In terms of the aesthetics of the movement, it is the same as the one we have for the automatic watch. We have the same micro-rotor, but with a different finishing and different weight it is a brand-new movement. We love having a geometric approach and so you will find the same approach in all of our Finissimo collection. On the peripheral rotor, you can see the Bvlgari Perpetual Calendar in platinum with double finishing. This watch is not a prototype, but a piece that can be sold.
What is the price for the titanium version?
It is priced at EUR 60,000; it is not a limited series, and it is not numbered. The platinum version is more expensive as the weight of the material is different. The platinum version is priced at EUR 90,000.
Speaking of the rotor of the Perpetual Calendar, why haven’t you used a rotor that goes around the movement. Wouldn’t that save you some space?
Yes, it would have given us more space, but it is not easy when you have to accommodate a pushbutton. When you have a peripheral rotor, you have to have the pushbutton below or on top of the peripheral rotor. This is not so easy and the dimensions of the movement becomes bigger and wider because you have the peripheral rotor. The idea was to have a very easy-to-wear watch on the wrist with these amazing features, but in a very discreet way. We love the peripheral rotor and we have used it for the chronograph and for other grand complication movements on the Finissimo, but on this one the idea was to start with a micro-rotor in platinum. The watch comes in two version: Titanium and the platinum with a leather strap.
It is a beautiful watch; how did you handle the aesthetics?
Yes, it is a beautiful watch; it is very discreet unlike other perpetual calendars. With four counters, we decided to work on the aesthetics of Octo Finissimo after the chronograph and the hour, minute, and second. We decided to work on a very pure design with just two counters as big as possible and the retrograde date as the biggest elements on the dial. It was not easy; we changed the position of the three hands numerous times; even the placement of the leap-year indication was a difficult decision due to the movement and the technical features. But at the end, the watch is very discreet and we love the fact that this is one of the most complicated watch you can find on the market today. It has more than 400 components.
Can you tell us about the Divissima Allegra collection?
Another important watch that we are now launching is the Divissima Allegra Cocktail Watches collection. We have two jewellery watches of the Allegra collection made with our very popular designs from the time of the Allegra Jewellery collection. It is of coloured gemstones and we have used different cuts for the gemstones. We have two different executions in rose gold and white gold, with diamonds and different gems on the bezel and the case. It is a beautiful watch, very easy to wear with different elements moving and floating. The jewellery part of the watch comes from Italy, while the movement comes from Switzerland.
We have two other watches from the Divas’ Dream Divissima collection; one is with diamonds and emeralds and the second one is with diamonds and has a black strap. This is the evolution of our Divas’ Dream collection. The watches feature geometric elements with floating diamonds and floating petals. The inspiration for Divas’ Dream collection comes from the mosaic of the Caracalla Bath in Rome. The petals are triangular elements and the diamonds in these petals are mobile. It is again a perfect combination of the craftsmanship we have in Italy and our know-how as a watchmaker.
Can you tell us about your other new editions launched?
There is another watch, the Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando, which is the second edition of our collaboration with the famous contemporary architect. This time, it is an Octo Finissimo with a ceramic case. The first version was sold out in a few weeks; now we have the second one with a blue dial and a rising moon. It is very Japanese in terms of aesthetics and execution, with a ceramic case, bezel, and bracelet. All the concentric elements on the blue dial represent the black hole, which was the subject of the first Octo Finissimo we made with Tadao. The second one is more dark, with the moon in the night.
The watch is absolutely crazy; we have removed all the indexes and the logo from the dial. All of the dial of the first watch was a white piece of paper for Tadao. It was a great success and we immediately got enquiries about a second edition. They started becoming collectible pieces and several collectors starting collecting the Octo Finissimo in several editions and different movements.
Is the moon on the Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando part of the movement? Or is it just an aesthetic?
No, it is just an aesthetic, and a philosophical concept. We love the dial; it is absolutely Japanese in terms of proportions and details. After the first edition, he decided to go ahead with this black hole execution. The watch is black, but with a dark-blue dial and the moon.
