Zenith on skeletonising El Primero
During the 2025 LVMH Watch Week, haute horlogerie maison Zenith unveiled a skeletonised version of the Defy Skyline Chronograph, as well as a more luxurious, rainbow version of its Chronomaster Sport. “Day & Night” magazine sat down with Benoit De Clerck, CEO of Zenith Watches, to find out the details
Zenith just released the new Defy Skyline Chronograph; can you tell us more about the finishings on the skeleton movement?
Our new Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton debuts the El Primero 3600 movement in a skeletonised design, a first for the collection. The finishings are meticulously crafted, combining satin-brushed and polished surfaces to highlight the star-shaped bridge, while the iconic double Z motif, inspired by our vintage design, adds a unique and distinctive character. This skeleton movement is the result of continuous dialogue between our designers, engineers, and watchmakers, enabled by the creative freedom we enjoy as an integrated manufacture.
Was it difficult from a design perspective to create a skeleton chronograph while maintaining the legibility of the hands?
Yes, designing a skeleton chronograph while maintaining legibility was a challenge, but our teams approached it with a practical solution. By applying darker finishes – such as black or deep blue – to the movement, including the movement plate, we created a contrast that allows the rhodium-plated hands to remain clearly visible. Similarly, the counters were also rhodium-plated to ensure they stand out against the movement. This approach achieves a clean and functional design without sacrificing aesthetics.
Two dial colour variations (blue and black) were introduced; which version was more popular?
Both versions have found their audience, but the blue dial remains the more popular choice. As the iconic colour of the brand, it naturally resonates more with aficionados and collectors, who see it as a signature of Zenith’s identity.
Zenith just released the Chronomaster Sport Rainbow in white gold after last year’s version in rose gold. How was the feedback for the white gold compared to the rose gold?
The rose gold version introduced in January 2024 was not a Rainbow model, as it featured blue and grey sapphires alongside black spinels. In contrast, the new white gold Rainbow edition represents our iconic timepiece in its most luxurious form, boasting a bezel set with 50 vibrant gemstones totalling 5.34 carats. The feedback has been overwhelmingly positive, which aligns with our confidence given the growing demand in this segment.
Will this watch be limited to a number or to production?
Although this watch is not a time-limited edition, the Chronomaster Sport will be produced in highly limited quantities. This is a piece we proudly incorporate into our core collection.
