Zenith returns to the ’60s
Horological brand Zenith, which has been around for more than 150 years, now pays homage to its creations of the 1960s in its new offerings
Heritage 146
This year sees the return of a great Zenith classic – a 1960s watch that is the inspiration for a new vintage series, the Heritage 146 chronograph equipped with an El Primero movement.
The 1960s model was equipped with Calibre 146D featuring a balance-wheel oscillating at a rate of 18,000 vibrations/hour, ensuring a 38-hour power reserve and displays of the hours, minutes, and small seconds at 9 o’clock. Like the HODINKEE limited edition in 2016, the new Heritage 146 offers a chronograph with central sweep-seconds hand and 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, as well as a tachymetric scale. This two-counter dial without a date window reflects a configuration typical of 1960s chronographs.
The case of this exclusive edition now frames two dial options: tropical brown or blue sunray-patterned with rhodium-coated baton hands. However, its key difference is that it beats to the lively rhythm of 36,000 vibrations per hour, dictated by the automatic high-beat El Primero Calibre 4069. Regulated and adjusted to meet chronometer standards, this 254-part column-wheel chronograph calibre – wound by an oscillating weight adorned with “Côtes de Genève” – drives an extremely accurate tenth-of-a-second display and has an over 50-hour power reserve. Its high-frequency mechanism is housed in a 38 mm-diameter vintage-style steel case that is water resistant to 50 meters and features a fluted crown as well as two round pushers. The screw-down sapphire crystal case back has an anti-reflective treatment on both sides. The final touch is set by a racing-style strap in a choice of brown or blue rubber-lined calfskin leather.
El Primero 36’000 VpH in black and white
The latest additions to the El Primero collection are attired in classic black and white variations. 1969 was a historical year for the watch industry that saw Zenith present the world’s most accurate series-made chronograph: the El Primero. Alongside its high-frequency movement, El Primero also stands for an emblematic design recognisable at first glance. Its three counters – originally in anthracite, blue and light grey –have been part of the Zenith DNA for almost half-a-century.
The fast-paced chronograph now reveals a particularly sophisticated look in two chiaroscuro interpretations. The counters provide an attractive and complementary ‘visual opposites’ effect against a finely sunray-patterned ebony black or silver-toned base, punctuated by black luminescent facetted hour-markers and hands enhanced with bright red touches.
The intense black ceramicised aluminium case of these two new models houses a high-frequency column-wheel chronograph movement, beating at 5Hz and powering a tenth-of-a-second display, the El Primero 400B calibre drives central hours and minutes functions, small seconds, chronograph and date, while ensuring a more-than-50-hour power reserve. The domed sapphire crystal, round push-pieces and knurled crown accentuate the powerful build of this 42 mm chronograph, which is water resistant up to 100 M. The timepiece comes with a perforated black rubber strap secured by a titanium and black PVD-coated triple folding clasp.
